SERVICING — Ryobi Fin Tek V-Mag 3

Angling Addict, an old friend from the Fishingkaki forum days dropped by my place with this reel that can’t freespool. I took a look at the box and immediately decided I wanted to help fix this reel if I could. It’s my belief that for surviving so long, old reels certainly deserve to be fixed back to working condition.

Have Schematic, won’t go too far wrong

Looking at the schematic, I don’t know whether to be amazed at how the engineers in those days, could make a reel work out of so few parts, or to be dismayed that our modern low profile baitcasters have become a literal reflection of our modern lives — complicated with all kinds of technology whose raison d’être was to simplify our lives in the first place, and as a consequence, we needed to add yet more complications into our lives in a Sisyphean effort of simplify it.

But I digress. So before I forget what was the task at hand and take us all off tangent to another topic, let’s get back to the reel at hand. I shall be referring to the parts by the schematic’s key number and naming them as the schematic.

Galvanic Corrosion almost did this reel in
When I took the reel apart, I noticed salt deposits and in my mind, I prepared myself for a battle of Galvanic Corrosion. But thankfully, the parts held up amazingly well against the salt attack. There wasn’t widespread corrosion that I had expected. Only, the #22 Pinion Gear Assembly had fused to the #34 Spool Assembly’s Shaft. It took me several half-hour cycles on the ultrasonic cleaner at 40°c, and the last cycle with acetic acid, in order to get the corrosion loosened enough that it can be pried apart very carefully.

Wow! Here’s all the user serviceable parts in this reel! For a low profile, magnetic cast controlled baitcaster, the few parts and the total absence of ball bearings makes one wonder how anglers today would be able to cast a lure at all, let alone catch a fish if given such gear.

Let’s get started in assembling the reel.

Grease #20 Ratchet Gear Assembly.

Grease and slip on copper #21 Adjusting Washer.

Grease and install #26 Clutch Cam.

The matt finish of #31 Main Body Assembly and the lack of corrosion had fooled me into thinking that the material was some early incarnation of a graphite frame, so I didn’t think it necessary to apply a layer of Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine grease to protect it.

Install #20 Ratchet Gear Assembly.

Secure #20 Ratchet Gear Assembly to #31 Main Body Assembly, with #25 Retaining Ring (position was incorrectly drawn on the schematic).

Grease and attach #28 Push Button to copper #30 Push Button Screw on #31 Main Body Assembly. Connect #28 Push Button to #26 Clutch Cam with #27 Push Button Pin.

Secure #28 Push Button with #32 Retaining Ring.

With the aid of locking pliers, attach #29 Spring to #31 Main Body Assembly and to #28 Push Button.

While fixing #29 Spring to #31 Main Body Assembly, some paint got scraped off to reveal shiny metal beneath. It’s then that I realised #31 Main Body Assembly was made of aluminium and not graphite. In such a case, a coat of Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine grease is needed to protect the metal from saltwater corrosion.

Installing the Levelwind

Grease and install #48 Cover, by passing through #31 Main Body Assembly and #49 Holder Assembly.

Install the bigger #37 Support Pole B threading through #49 Holder Assembly.

Attach black plastic #46 Oilless Bush.

Grease #47 Traverse Cam.

Install with the key side at #46 Oilless Bush.

Install #44 Claw.

And secure with #43 Cap.

Install brass #45 Traverse Cam Gear, matching the key of #47 Traverse Cam.

Installing the Drivetrain

Work grease between the teeth of #22 Pinion Gear Assembly, yoke its neck to #24 Clutch Lever and suspend them between two copper pegs on #31 Main Body Assembly. Note that #24 Clutch Lever looks like a ‘Z’ when installed with the reel foot facing you.

Grease and attach #35 Anti Reverse Claw Assembly to #36 Anti Reverse Claw Screw.

Install Phenolic resin #19 Washer to #20 Ratchet Gear Assembly.

Carefully work grease between the teeth of #18 Main Gear and install.

Install fibre #17 Drag Washer dry.

Slide on steel #16 Drag Washer dry.

slip on #23 Clutch Springs to the two copper pegs on #31 Main Body.

Drop a drop of light oil on the shaft of #34 Spool Assembly to prevent further corrosion.

Slip on #33 Oilless Bush and secure with #32 Retaining Ring.

Grease the threads on #7 Adjusting Screw and slip on #8 Adjusting Spring

Install #7 Adjusting Screw to #11 Side Plate B Assembly.

Grease and install both Bellevielle spring #15 Drag Washers by facing their concave sides to each other.

Grease and slip on #14 Washer.

Grease and attach aluminium #13 Drag Collar.

Slip on #50 Washer.

Attach #11 Side Plate B Assembly. Secure bottom hole with #10 Side Plate Screw and front hole near the levelwind with #12 Screw.

Grease and attach #38 Support Pole C and secure top hole with #10 Side Plate Screw.

Grease and thread on #6 Star Drag.

Grease and install #5 Spring Washer with the concave side facing outwards.

Attach #4 Handle Assembly, secure with # 3 Handle Retaining Nut, lock in place with #2 Retaining Screw and secure with #1 Retaining Plate Screw.

Insert #34 Spool Assembly, cover with #42 Side Plate A Assembly, and secure with two #10 Side Plate Screws for the top and bottom holes and #12 Screw for the front hole near the levelwind.

Drop some oil down the shafts of each handle knob and spin them till oil comes out the other side.

The reel is repaired!

May it continue to pull fishes out of fishing ponds for many years to come.

Text and Images © Lawrence Lee
All Rights Reserved
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