A decade ago, one reel’s name was mentioned more often than the others amongst jigging enthusiasts — Saltiga. With its distinctive blue over aluminium livery and bomb-proof construction, the JDM Saltiga Z20, Z30 and Z40 had etched Saltiga’s name into the annals of the greatest reels in fishing history. The Saltiga Z reel was so smooth that it rivalled ABU’s Ambassadeurs which were legends in smoothness in their time. Cranking a Saltiga Z gave one a pleasurable feeling of silkiness similar to stroking the coat of a kitten. And who could forget the attention to detail Daiwa engineers gave to that reel, with O-rings for weatherproofing almost everywhere, including the screws that held the reel together.
Sadly, after the success of Saltiga overhead reels, Daiwa seem to have changed tack and favoured the egg-beater style of reels for the Saltiga range and it had been so for well over a decade. So it was to the delight of fans for conventional reels that Daiwa launched the Saltiga 10 and Saltiga 15 conventional star drag reels during the Japan Fishing Festival, at Yokohama in January 2015.
A High-tech Reel
This 2015 Saltiga boasted a precision-milled, Super Alloy frame which made it feasible for parts to miniaturised to shave off ounces without compromising rigidity and strength. A narrow spool negates the need for a levelwind. A small sideplate with a huge overhanging gearbox improves balance of the reel, narrowing the gap between Spinning and conventional reels in jigging. A long, offset 75mm-85mm handle worked in conjunction with Daiwa’s legendary Hyper Digigear, is able to convert effortless cranking of the handle into loads of anchor lifting torque, and still achieve with silky smoothness. But all that silky smooth torque will be of no use if its drag is not up to the task of stopping a determined grouper from reaching it’s wreck or wearing a trevally down before the breaking point of tackle is reached. So Daiwa equipped this reel with ATD or Automatic Tournament Drag.
Now ‘what is Automatic Tournament Drag’? I thought to myself. ‘Wasn’t Daiwa’s woven-graphite discs called UTD or Ultimate Tournament Drag already the ultimate when used with a bit of drag grease? What could be Ultimater than ultimate and what’s an Automatic Drag’? I resolved to find out more, but Daiwa’s tight-lipped way of explaining their technical innovations are often hard to comprehend. I confess I’ve never truly fully understood their explanation for Real Four Technology. But neither do I understand what was the true meaning of Wabi-sabi, Ichi-go Ichi and now ATD. I nod my head now, like as bored student, I had nodded when algebra was explained to me by my tuition teacher. But in reality, my mind was miles away on a rock with surf foaming all around…, and I just had to give a response to her “Do you understand what I’m saying Mr Lawrence Lee Teck Chye”? But I digress.
So what is really ATD? Does it automatically adjust your drag? Here’s what I found from Daiwa’s Australia website: “The drag system is called ATD or Automatic Tournament Drag, this is a new introduction into the Daiwa spinning reel range. The biggest issue with many drag systems is that they are not smooth at the beginning of the drag. ATD rectifies this issue. ATD works like this, at the beginning of a strike the drag starts smoothly, then increases to its pre-set drag rating in a fraction of a second, thus eliminating line breakage at the strike.” – http://daiwafishing.com.au/products/2015-exist/
So in short, my guess is, ATD is Daiwa’s way of saying their woven graphite discs now have a coating of grease to reduce the amount of breakaway force needed to get the drag to release line. Put in this light, it comes as a disappointment since we had been using greased Carbontex drags for well over a decade to achieve this effect without having to coin a term for that. But maybe this is something special. So I’m very keen to see what this ATD mechanism is all about, since the schematic doesn’t show anything that is much out of the ordinary.
MagSealed equipped bearings claim to protect against saltwater corrosion of the driving bearing.
Lastly, Spool Lock makes busting off a snagged jig on a drifting boat as convenient as a flick of the switch.
A look at the outside of the reel
Distinctive new Daiwa vector logo in silver is stylish. Printing on the glossy corrugated cardboard however, is easily scuffed, making the packaging appear cheap.
Saltiga logo printed in classic Saltiga Blue is an attempt to draw one back to the glory days of the Saltiga Star Drag reel. Logos and lettering are printed in silver, stylishly reflecting the markings of the reel, making this look like a fully integrated design.
Unpacking the Box
The reel is handsome in gunmetal grey anodise with Saltiga Blue accents. Handle Knob Tool, schematic, a user manual in Japanese and one for international markets, and warranty came in a plastic bag but the neoprene reel pouch is a head scratcher. It appear to be far more suited for the low profile Daiwa Lexa than this Saltiga. I was so surprised that I called to check if I got the wrong reel pouch. Has Daiwa become sloppy in the details?
Small and yet Big
Small and yet Big is what I would use to describe this new design of reels that started with the Shimano Calcutta D. The smaller palming sideplate make the reel feel much smaller in hand, than it appear in the photos. And my hands fit into S sized gloves. That is how small the palming side had become.
Full-sized clutch Lever with knurled knob works with a positive klunk! For us in the warm tropics, some may complain about the unnecessary size and the effort needed to disengage and engage the clutch, but in the colder ends of the globe when thick gloves and cold-numbed fingers are de rigueur, a purposeful clutch action like this will be appreciated.
Knurled knob will give good purchase to a slippery, gloved hand. Daiwa provided extra drain holes on this reel. This pair will drain off any water ingress when the reel is mounted upright in the rocket launchers. There are other drain holes for when the reel is sitting level, especially useful for draining the reel after washing. Saltiga Blue coloured trim piece (called Plate in the schematic) serves no apparent function. I wonder why Daiwa’s engineers would incorporate such a piece, when Daiwa is always known to produce pieces that incorporate form and function. Perhaps someone with better insight can teach me what is the purpose for this Blue piece of Aluminium.
Handle and Knob
Handle knob is a lightweight and slip proof round EVA knob supported by two ball bearings for free turning. Daiwa provides a well-made key to open the hatch on the knob. The Owner’s Manual mentioned the provision of an additional washer in case the Handle Knob is loose with just the present washer. I did not receive that in my box. However, since my handle knob fits without freeplay as it is, I’ll not be in need for that additional washer.
Cast Control Cap has a red aluminium insert to serve as an indicator. Together with an O-Ring seal, this is far better in keeping the elements from getting in, than the hole that ABU puts into their Revo reels.
Offset handle reduces wobble and has optional holes for fixing it at 75mm or lengthening it to 85mm.
Huge 14mm Hex nut for the handle disguises a skinny screw underneath. Care must be taken not to overtorque. Allen screws fasten the reel together, except the one just beneath the Clutch Lever, probably due to that piece of Blue Aluminium.
MagSealed! Boon or Bane?
Daiwa engineers must have dropped the idea of preventing water ingress in favour of MagSealed Ball Bearings for keeping the reel functioning despite haven taken in water. Unfortunately, this bearing tends to fail in even holding the proprietary magnetic oil within itself. The owner’s manual say not to lubricate or disassemble MagSeal bearings or it will lose its function. But by just playing with this reel, cranking the handle and spinning the spool, I found rust-coloured MagOil had leaked out onto the spool spindle. How much more to expect this device to keep seawater from getting inside and corroding the balls. I’m leery, considering the number of failed MagSealed bearings I’ve come across, that this technology is sound.
To make matters worse, these MagSealed bearings come in proprietary sizes and standard ball bearings cannot be found to replace these things. Please-lah Daiwa, if you want a corrosion proof ball bearing, equip your reels with fully ceramic ones. These won’t corrode, they certainly are more reliable and have no limitations compared to your MagSealed bearings — you can even use fully ceramic bearings for the spool spindle!
Daiwa’s new vector logo and text are sandblasted into the frame. No fear here that the logo will wash off in the ultrasonic cleaner. By virtue that the logo on the reel reflects the silver printed logo on the box gives me goose bumps as a designer, when I think of the look of satisfaction on the faces of Daiwa’s designers when they see how well their design had played out in print and in metal.
Spool Lock knob (called Click Button on the schematic – how can it be a click button when it will not pay out line? I’d like to see the face of such an angler who leaves this reel in freespool, engage this click button, free lines a live fish and a big pelagic takes and runs). This knob is knurled for friction and recessed unobtrusively in a groove on the Palming Side plate. My Spool Lock knob is very stiff to operate, causing me to wish the knurling to be further extended to cover the chamfered bevel on the knob. I must take this reel apart to see what is causing it to be so stiff.
Caveat: Daiwa’s owner manual says not to disassemble the reel, other than to remove the spool. Please open your reel at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for your damaging your reel when you opened it after reading this step-by-step guide.
A gear ratio of 6.4 to 1 gives the reel an optimum balance of good cranking power and a line retrieve rate of 1m per turn of the handle, making this reel ideal for shallow water slow pitch jigging applications. Gearbox Cover (called Frame Plt in the schematic) sports the classic Saltiga Blue — a bold statement of its illustrious name.
Cross bars on the Frame are milled to be bulging outward to allow for uneven line laying when jigging or in the heat of a fight.
Having a 6.4 etched into the Gear Housing would only mean one thing — soon, there will be a lower geared model (the Japanese language schematic provides part numbers for a 1 : 5.1 gear ratio forSaltiga 10 and 15 models) or maybe a hyper-speed model.
Quite shocking to see ‘Made In Korea’ stamped into the reel’s foot, and rivets instead of bolts securing it to the Frame. I’d have thought that Daiwa would keep Saltiga’s manufacture within Japan. But the price point of this reel is low, and the quality for this reel so far had not fallen too far, so I guess that’s acceptable with the currently soft market sentiment to manufacture at a less expensive locale.
For such a big reel, the Saltiga 10 has a small spool. For comparison, this reel has the same spool capacity as the venerable ABU Ambassadeur 5000, which was The baitcaster in days of yore. If you intend to jig at deeper waters, the Saltiga 15 which is the same mechanically, but with a deeper spool, will give you more line capacity.
Multi Lingual manuals
Daiwa supplied a comprehensive and useful Owner’s manual in Japanese, English, French, German and Spanish. Reading the manual carefully is recommended, especially the part on casting and on simple maintenance.
Unfortunately, the schematic for my reel is only in Japanese. But I have managed to download an English version from Daiwa’s US website.
The translator made a freudian slip on drag, or had been too long on drugs? Things like this will not happen if they paid the sub editor a decent pay. Nevertheless, the Owner’s Manual gives very useful tips on how to use and maintain the reel.
Schematics keep the guessing minimal
Before we start, have your schematic ready. If you haven’t got one, you can download one from this US Daiwa website. It’s better to print an enlarged copy of the schematic so that it’s easier to refer to when hands are slick with oil and grease. I’ll be referring to parts by their #key number as well as calling it as it is named in this schematic.
Get your tools and lubes together
Get your tools and lubes together before starting. This will ensure your operation run smoothly. To remove the handle nut, you need a 14mm wrench. Here, I’m using a 14mm socket wrench to prevent scratching the nut as well as the handle. The 3/8 inch socket wrench to its right is used to press out #61 Roller Clutch. You can also use a 10mm socket wrench for this. Handle Knob Key is supplied by Daiwa. You’ll also need size 1 Philips screwdriver, sizes 3 & 4 Flat screwdriver, sizes 2.5 & 3 Allen Keys, a pair of needle nosed forceps and a locking haemostat to set springs.
To remove the shields from ball bearings, you’d need very sharp hooks — I use Dai Ichi Aji size 12 hooks. To remove and fit back the #61 Roller Clutch Bearing, you may also need a Bench Vice/G Clamp or a stout wooden stick with a rounded end such as a truncheon.
For lubes, you need a reel oil for ball bearings, a grease for gears, a light grease for ball bearings & spool spindles and marine grease for corrosion prevention. You are free to use your own lube of choice. I use ReelX oil, Cal’s Universal Reel and Star Drag Grease (Gold Label), and Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease with Teflon, because I am happy with the protection they offer and also that they do not react against each other to form gum or sludge. If you are not sure about your own lubes’ interactions, I’d suggest that you test mix a small amount in a glass container and store it away for a month or two to see if it separates, gums, turns to sludge or dissolve the grease before you use it in your reel. If it does, do not allow them to mix or come in contact with each other in your reel.
If you want to know why I chose to use Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease, you can read about it HERE. You also need degreasing fluids such as Simple Green, a toothbrush or an ultrasonic cleaning machine to wash off the old grease, and a fine-meshed colander to capture any tiny parts from going down the drain when you rinse off. To dry off, you need kitchen towels and a hairdryer. (Do not use hairdryer or any motorised screwdriver if you are using alcohol based degreasers and solvents)
Customising the Grease
Today, I will be repacking the ball bearings with grease. Ball bearings that are packed with grease will resist saltwater corrosion much better than ball bearings that are oiled. However, grease will slow down the ball bearing due to its high viscosity. Therefore it’s not recommended to grease ball bearings that spin at high speed such as the spool bearings.
I want my grease to be thinner than the Gold Label Cal’s Grease for the ball bearings. So I mix some ReelX with Cal’s grease with a tongue depressor till I get the viscosity I need. Don’t ask me how many parts of each as I do that the same way as I cook — agak agak. Because we Peranakans do not specify exact amounts in the recipe, we cook by feel as the ingredients vary from day to day. So as we say “Agak Agak”.
Grease is thinned. If you are doing this for the first time, do set this mixture aside for at least a month to be sure your combination of oil and grease is able to mix with no adverse effect.
Store your mixed grease in resealable containers and label them so that you know what they are for in the future.
Round reels are always simpler
Here’s the sum of parts in this reel. Round bait casters are always simpler than low profile ones.
Greasing the bearings for longevity
Begin by removing the shields on the ball bearings with your hook, and degreasing away the lubricant it came with. (I simply chucked the ball bearings in a bottle of Simple Green and ran it in the ultrasonic cleaner for 10 mins). If you want to read more about removing the shields on your ball bearings, visit this post. Not all the ball bearings in this reel have removable shields, only the two ball bearings in the Handle Knob and #29 Ball Bearing. If you forcefully pry away those ball bearings that have permanent shields, you run the risk of damaging the sensitive balls inside. So I’d usually leave them alone until I can get a replacement set for standby before I attempt it.
Do not mix lubricants that came in the bearing with your own unless you know from experience that it will not cause a chemical reaction. So it’s always safer to degrease completely, then reapply your lube of choice.
Pack each ball bearing full of grease. If you don’t have a ball bearing greaser, make sure that you clean your hands thoroughly. You don’t want to lube up your ball bearings with grit and dirt that’s introduced from dirty hands. Squeeze grease in from one side until it comes out at the opposite side.
The dimensions for these two Handle Knob ball bearings are 8mm x 5mm x 2.5mm (OD x ID x thickness)
Paste the shield back on, concave side facing inwards.
Insert one end of the C-Clip against the outer race and work around till the whole C Clip had snapped home into the ball bearing. Repeat the process for the opposite side.
#29 Ball bearing is bigger so it’s harder to pack fully. Although this ball bearing directly supports the big end of #48 Pinion gear, I chose to grease this as a 6.4 : 1 gear ratio is not very fast and this ball bearing will need more protection from water that can spray from the spool up the #48 Pinion Gear.
The dimensions for this #29 Ball Bearing are: 15mm x 9mm x 4.5mm (OD x ID x thickness).
Fit shield to #29 Ball Bearing with the concave side facing inwards.
Snap in C-Clip to #29 Ball Bearing.
Handle Knob Assembly
With a paintbrush, apply Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease to the shaft of #98 Handle, as well as within the tube of Handle Knob.
Grease and insert washer.
Insert the ball bearing you had just packed.
Ensure that grease is coating the inner tube of Handle Knob. This part gets the most exposure to saltwater, so it pays to be careful at this end.
Insert the second ball bearing you had just packed into this end of the Handle Knob.
Insert Handle Knob over Handle Shaft and secure with Philips head Screw. Do not over tighten as it will make the ball bearings wear out prematurely from lateral loading.
Protect the undersides of Handle Knob Plate and Screw with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease.
Install and secure with Daiwa’s supplied key, taking note the direction of turn stated on the key.
Store the key in a safe place.
Set Plate Assembly
Paint on a layer of Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine grease to #27 Set Plt for protection against corrosion. Take care to coat all corners and holes with the grease. The two silver Pins #44 and #59 can be removed to ensure the holes that they sit in are also protected against corrosion with marine grease. When you replace the Pins, #44 should be pointed upwards while #59 points the other way.
Install #29 Ball Bearing that was just packed with grease. In the schematic, there is a #28 Collar which is absent in my reel.
Paste on black plastic #30 Plate.
Secure with #31 Screw.
Gear Shaft Assembly
Protect #36 Gear Shaft from salt corrosion with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease.
Insert stainless steel #38 Plate.
If you have a ball bearing greaser, refill and install #37 Ball Bearing.
The dimensions for #37 Ball Bearing are 9mm x 5mm x 3mm (OD x ID x thickness)
Secure with C-Clip #39 Retainer.
Insert #40 Washer into the housing in #27 Set Plt. To discourage saltwater from getting in, fill the hole with Cal’s grease.
Install #36 Gear Shaft.
Secure #36 Gear Shaft with two #41 Screws.
Slide Plate Assembly
Coat black plastic #30 Plate with Cal’s Grease and insert #33 Spring.
Coat the underside of #32 Slide Plt (Auto Clutch) with Cal’s Grease and paste onto black plastic #30 Plate. Connect the leg of #33 Spring to the arm in #32 Slide Plt (Auto Clutch).
Grease #35 Screw with Cal’s Grease and insert #34 Washer
Secure #32 Slide Plt (Auto Clutch) with #35 Screw and #34 Washer.
Test #32 Slide Plt (Auto Clutch) by moving it up and down, ensuring the arm swings freely, #33 Spring stay put and #32 Slide Plt (Auto Clutch) can slide smoothly. Take the time to test thoroughly and make fine adjustments if needed because this will affect the force your reel needs to engage its clutch when you crank the handle.
Grease #45 Stopper with Cal’s Grease and install on silver #44 Pin.
Pinion Gear Assembly
Carefully grease #48 Pinion Gear with Cal’s Grease, taking care to ensure grease is worked in between the teeth. Hang #48 Pinion Gear on #42 Yoke and install on two posts of #27 Set Plt.
Insert two #43 Yoke Springs to their individual posts.
Drive Gear Assembly
Grease both sides of #46 Ratchet (Auto Clutch) and woven carbon #47 Washer with Cal’s Grease.
Mate #46 Ratchet to #36 Gear Shaft, ensuring it fits squarely into the shaped key and is gripped by the thin brass plates of #45 Stopper.
Rotate #36 Gear Shaft to ensure it can turn freely anti clockwise and #45 Stopper will engage and jam it when turned clockwise.
Insert woven carbon #47 Washer.
Grease both sides of #49 Drive Gear with Cal’s Grease and slide it down #36 Gear Shaft.
Grease #51 Leaf Spring and thick, woven carbon #50 Washer with Cal’s Grease and install into #49 Drive Gear.
Grease both sides of aluminium #52 Plate with Cal’s Grease and install into #49 Drive Gear.
Grease both sides of sun-shaped #53 Washer with Cal’s grease and install. It looks like #53 Washer and #51 Leaf Spring creates the tactile clicking sensation when line is pulled out.
Grease both sides of smaller steel #54 Washer with Cal’s Grease and install.
Grease both sides of steel #55 Washer with Cal’s Grease and install. It seems strange to me that Daiwa’s engineers will want to stack 3 pieces of fixed metal washers against each other with no fibre washers in between. There will be no friction generated from these 3 pieces, other than the clicking sensation when line is pulled out.
Grease both sides of woven carbon #56 Washer with Cal’s Grease and install.
Grease both sides of eared metal #57 Washer with Cal’s Grease and install.
Grease both sides of woven carbon #56 Washer with Cal’s Grease and install.
Grease the underside of big thick metal #58 Washer with Cal’s grease and install.
The drag stack looks pretty ordinary to me. Other than for the greased woven carbon discs, I can see nothing extraordinary to make this drag “Automatic”. Perhaps it’s the grease Daiwa used in lubricating the drag that gives it that special characteristic. I’ll have to finish this installation, spool in more line and then test to see if that is true. If that’s the case, then only those with Daiwa’s ATD grease can service ATD drags. Daiwa’s domestic website HERE, is now offering ATD servicing. The 104kg Tuna landed from rock fishing by an egg-beater reel equipped with an ATD Drag is nevertheless very impressive.
Turn #36 Gear shaft clockwise to test that #45 Stopper will activate to jam the reel.
If it doesn’t, check that the brass tabs of #45 Stopper are clasping the #46 Ratchet (Auto Clutch).
Oil the thin #86 Washer with ReelX and install. edit: I’ve been informed that this is not the proper order of fitting. Instead, #85 Collar (see next step) should be fitted with it’s keyed side facing outwards.
Oil #85 Collar with ReelX and install. edit: I’ve been informed that this is not the proper order of fitting. Instead, you should fit this rounded side in contact with thick metal #58 Washer, then fit thin #86 Washer on top of it. A thousand apologies who had followed me in fitting it incorrectly.
Set aside and take a pee break as the next step is going to be greasy and a test of patience.
Go on! I’ll wait for you here.
Preparing the Side Plate
Coat #60 L/S Plt with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine grease to protect against corrosion. Take care to get grease into all the holes and corners. This is best achieved with a small paintbrush.
MagSealed Bearing Assembly
Since Daiwa recommend not lubricating the MagSeal #72 Ball Bearing, I’m gonna install it as it is. On the Schematic, there is a #71 Collar that is not present in my reel. My plan for this bearing is to use it as is, just to find out if the MagSealed technology is really superior to grease-filled ball bearings in the handle, by using it till one or the other fails. If the MagSealed Ball Bearing should fail earlier, I’ll simply get a standard ball bearing that can meet the Outer Diameter and thickness requirements, and then machine a sleeve to match the Inner Diameter, pack it with grease and that’ll serve as the replacement.
The dimensions of thisMagSealed #71 Ball Bearing is 10mm x 5mm x 4.5mm (OD x ID x thickness).
Insert white plastic #73 Washer.
Secure with C-Clip #74 Ring.
Roller Clutch Bearing Assembly
The #61 Roller Clutch is a one-way bearing that works as the primary antireverse for this reel. It has an interference fit to the #60 L/S Plt, (in other words, it needs to be forced into its housing in the Gear Sideplate). To protect the #61 Roller Clutch from rusting and getting jammed in the housing of the Gear Sideplate, I want to coat the outer shell with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease.
However, the needle rollers inside #61 Roller Clutch cannot be contaminated with grease or Antireverse will slip at higher tension settings. To make matters harder, the slippery greased outer case is hard to hold when I need to press it into the housing on #60 L/S Plt, so some preparation is needed to ensure a successful installation.
Nothing can be worse than taking great effort to install something, only to find out after assembly that it’s installed upside-down. To avoid that, firstly, test the direction of lock by inserting #85 Collar into #61 Roller Clutch before you insert it into #60 L/S Plt. Since this reel is Left handled, I hold #61 Roller Clutch in my Right hand, insert #85 Collar and rotate it forward with my left hand. If it jams, I flip #61 Roller Clutch around and rotate forward again with my left hand. Mark the end that can turn forward with a marker pen. (If your reel is right handled, turn #85 with your right hand instead). This step is crucial because installing the #61 Roller Clutch wrongly renders your reel inoperable after assembly.
To prevent grease from getting on the needle rollers of #61 Roller Clutch, stuff the hole with some tissue paper, then proceed to paint the outer shell of #61 Roller Clutch with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease. Line the surface of a sturdy work bench with some cloth and lay #60 L/S Plt on top. Place the greased #61 Roller Clutch over its housing, ensuring that the mark you made on it is facing downwards and the #61 Roller Clutch is sitting squarely over its housing.
Press the #61 Roller Clutch in, making sure it is not slanted or it may get jammed in its housing. If you have a hydraulic press or a large G clamp, you can use that to assist with pressing back the slippery #61 Roller Clutch in a controlled manner. In the past, when I do not have such tools, I used the long wooden Japanese pestle called a Surikogi from my kitchen to do the pressing. You can buy one from Daiso for only S$2.00. A truncheon will work too.
Remove tissue paper from #61 Roller Clutch and lubricate the needle rollers with ReelX.
Repack the grease in #87 Ball Bearing if you have a ball bearing greaser and install. If you don’t have a bearing greaser, drop a drop of ReelX for lubrication. When spares are available, I will want to pry away this shield and just pack the insides with grease, as I feel it’s not ideal to use oil for this Ball Bearing.
The dimensions for #87 Ball Bearing are 14mm x 8mm x 4mm (OD x ID x thickness).
Clutch Lever Assembly
Protect the inner surfaces of #62 Clutch Lever, the knurled #63 Lever and #64 Screw by coating with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease.
Assemble and tighten with a size 3 Allen key. This is the only place on the reel that use a size 3 hexagonal wrench.
Lubricate the keyed shaft of #62 Clutch Lever with Cal’s Grease.
Slip on stainless steel #65 washer. If you find the #62 Clutch Lever wobbly after much use, you can purchase a thicker 0.3 Thickness washer that is listed in the schematic to take up the slack.
Slip on white Teflon #66 Washer.
Install on #60 L/S Plt.
Grease black plastic #67 Plate with Cal’s Grease and seat into it’s housing.
Lubricate #68 Plate Assembly with Cal’s Grease and install.
Place a support such as a piece of pencil eraser, between table and #62 Clutch Lever. Press down on #68 Plate Assembly, so that E-Clip #69 Retainer can be snapped on.
Hook the bent end of #70 Spring into a hole on #68 Plate Assembly. Grip the #70 Spring with a pair of locking pliers/Vise Grips/Haemostats and insert the straight end into a hole on black plastic #67 Plate.
Work #62 Clutch Lever a few times to ensure all connections are sound.
Beware of Excess Grease
Although I want to protect all corners of my reel from corrosion by coating with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease, there is a caveat that I want to sound to others: Do not get carried away by filling all holes with grease.
Grease is thick and does not compress. On the reel, there are certain overflow holes strategically drilled through to allow excess grease to squeeze out. If you fill these holes with grease, tightening the screw will cause grease to fill up the hole and excess will squeeze out the overflow, effectively sealing the hole from water ingress.
However, there’s some places that do not have such an overflow hole, and also there are specific drainage holes on the reel for water to drain out. It’s important that we do not obstruct drainage holes with grease, or fill holes that have no overflow. If grease is filled into holes that aren’t equipped with an overflow outlet and the screws are tightened, there is no room for the grease to flow out from. Since grease (or oil) cannot be compressed, filling these holes can cause the frame to rupture under the pressure. So use your grease with discretion.
Assemble #27 Set Plt with #60 L/S Plt and secure with three #84 Screws.
2015 Saltiga Star Drag reels retain their O-Rings on their mounting screws! The three Allen Screws #81 that secure #60 L/S Plt to the Frame have individual #82 O-Rings to keep the screws in place and maintain weatherproofing. To keep galvanic corrosion from happening, paint a bit of Quicksilver 2-4-C into the 4 four screw holes in #60 L/S Plt, here the dissimilar metals of screw and sideplate can result in galvanic corrosion happening if it’s not protected.
Then, screw in slotted #83 Screw — I’m just surprised why Daiwa’s engineers didn’t take the extra step to form a deeper hole so that this could also be an Allen Screw, just like the other three.
Lubricate the grooves on #60 L/S Plt with Cal’s Grease. This will help you to roll #75 O-Ring into its groove and snap on #76 Leaf Spring.
Secure #76 Leaf Spring with white teflon #80 Washer.
Lubricate the threads and ratchets in #77 Cast Control Cap with Cal’s Grease. Paste on black plastic #78 Washer.
Add a drop of ReelX to copper #79 Washer and paste in.
Screw on #77 Cast Control Cap.
Star Drag Assembly
Daiwa’s Star Drag and Handle are amongst the easiest to assemble. You don’t need to load a stack of spring-loaded parts, then fumble with starting a flat brass screw while the whole stack is ready to shoot out of your greasy and ever weakening grip. No, not for Daiwa. From their baitcasters, through their egg-beater reels, Daiwa engineers seem to have displayed a spirit of ‘courtesy for others’. So even though other reel companies strive to make their reels ever more complex, Daiwa’s reels had always spared consideration for the person servicing their reels and has been the most simplified mechanisms amongst the big names.
That’s not to say that Daiwa reels are any lesser, far from that! Daiwa’s reels are quietly unassuming, and yet brilliant on execution, their designs have gone beyond satisfying the angler, to even making it easy for the reel technician too. I am always deeply touched by the Daiwa engineers’ spirit of Omotenashi each time I service a Daiwa reel.
To prevent water from seeping behind the star drag and into the reel, thickly coat #36 Gear Shaft and #87 Ball Bearing with Cal’s Grease. Slip on steel #88 Washer.
Snap #90 Spring into #89 Click Leaf Holder and grease both sides with Cal’s Grease.
Slide on to #36 Gear Shaft.
Coat both Belleville #91 Spring Washers with Cal’s Grease and install with their concave sides facing each other.
Grease the metal side of #92 Washer and install with the black, non-metal side facing outwards.
Screw in the brass #93 Nut with the smooth side facing downward.
Lightly grease #94 Spring and fit into its groove in brass #93 Nut.
Lubricate both sides of #95 Star Drag with Cal’s Grease and install.
Paste black plastic #96 Washer on top of #95 Star Drag.
Coat both sides of metal #97 Washer with Cal’s Grease and install.
Fit the appropriate slot on #98 Handle to #36 Gear Shaft and smear some Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease to act as a layer to prevent galvanic corrosion from occurring at the place where dissimilar metals meet with salt water.
Dab a dab of Cal’s Grease to the threads of #99 Handle Nut Screw and secure with 14mm wrench. Take care not to over tighten.
The Worst is over!
Dab a drop of Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease to the threads of both Allen #100 Handle Lock Screws and secure.
Preparing the Frame
To prevent corrosion, paint on Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine grease inside the #1 Frame, taking care to cover all holes and corners. As the spool flanges spin at close tolerances to the frame, clean away any grease that is smeared to the two inner frames that face the spool.
Paste on brass #14 Washer, and coat with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease.
Paste on second brass #15 Washer and paint on a dab of the thinned Cal’s Grease used for packing ball bearings. Because this reel is not used for casting, a light grease will be fine as it will go a longer way in keepings things smooth and long lasting.
Wet felt #16 Washer with ReelX and paste on.
Lubricate #17 Ball Bearing with ReelX and install.
The dimensions for this ball bearing are: 11mm x 4mm x 4mm thick (OD x ID x thickness)
Snap on #18 Ring to retain the parts in place. Here, you see the ReelX from the felt #16 Washer flowing out. This is a no-no for small baitcasters as excess oiling will affect casting distance for small lures. But for a jigging reel that will be letting 100g to 300g of lead sink smoothly down to the seabed, the excess doesn’t matter, other than it being a waste of a good oil.
Installing Spool Lock Mechanism
Fit on black plastic #2 Collar. My Spool Lock mechanism felt very stiff to operate. On inspection, I found it was oil lubricated. So to make it easier to slide, I’ll grease the mechanism.
Lubricate inside of black plastic #2 Collar with Cal’s Grease and attach #5 Click Spring pointing down at the reel foot.
Lube black plastic #3 Click Plt with Cal’s Grease and paste on.
Coat Cal’s Grease to the stem of #4 Click Button and insert.
To prevent water from getting in, fill the hole with Cal’s Grease. Also grease the two stumps with Cal’s Grease.
Apply Cal’s Grease to the underside of L-shaped #6 Plate and install.
Apply Cal’s Grease to both sides of #7 Washer and paste it in.
Snap on E-Clip #8 Retainer to secure.
Coat both sides of #9 Plate with Cal’s Grease and use it to connect the slotted stump to the other end of L-shaped #6 Plate.
Paste on steel #10 Collar.
Coat both sides of triple legged #11 Stopper and paste on.
Paste on thin metal washer that is not listed in the schematics.
Snap on E Clip #12 Retainer.
Hook the open end of #13 Spring to the hooked leg of #11 Stopper. Stretch #13 Spring and hang the closed loop end over the stump. Test the Spool Lock Mechanism for smoothness and function. This time, it works just right!
Fancy Trim Assembly
Coat the insides of blue anodised #21 Frame Plt and #19 Plate with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine grease to prevent corrosion between the frame and these.
Paste #19 Plate onto #1 Frame.
Secure with two Philips head #20 Screws. I really cannot see any real function of this piece other than for decoration. As a result of this piece there is a gap marring the otherwise perfect joints of this reel. And also because of this piece, the #83 Screw needed to be a slotted screw instead of an Allen screw like the other three.
Paste on #21 Frame Plt to matching pegs on #1 Frame.
Secure with two slotted head #22 Screws.
Lube the #24 A/R Ratchet on the spool with Cal’s Grease.
Oh, this reminds me that I hadn’t gone down to the workshop to press out this spool pin. I gotta do that in order to service this ball bearing too.
Fix back the Left Sideplate, give the exterior a wipe with a towel moistened with Simple Green to remove grease. Tension the line tensioner, spool in the line, and the reel is serviced and protected. Now it’s time to go out and fish this reel.
Till I next see you out on the water, stay safe and happy fishing!
PS: A Summary of the Ball Bearing dimensions for this reel are:
#17 Frame Spool Ball Bearing 11mm x 4mm x 4mm
#29 Pinion Ball Bearing (Big) 15mm x 9mm x 4.5mm
#37 Drive Shaft Ball Bearing (Small) 9mm x 5mm x 3mm
#72 Pinion Ball Bearing (MagSeal) 10mm x 5mm x 4.5mm
#87 Drive Shaft Ball Bearing (Big) 14mm x 8mm x 4mm
Handle Knob Ball Bearings (2x) 8mm x 5mm x 2.5mm
Spool Spindle Ball Bearing (haha sorry, not yet removed the spool pin. As a consequence, I’m unable to provide the dimensions for now. Please be patient with me and check back. I’ll surely update the dimensions once I get to measure the Ball Bearing)
All dimensions are measured OD x ID x Thickness
Text and Images © Lawrence Lee
All Rights Reserved
If you want to use any content for your own publication, please write me @ Lee.TC.Lawrence@gmail.com