SERVICING — Daiwa Certate Hyper Custom

This old Daiwa Certate 3000 Hyper Custom landed on my table in need of a good wash down and a new coat of grease. Now, as everyone will tell you, Lawrence knows next to nothing about these egg-beater style reels, and I agree totally. I’ve been using and servicing conventional multipliers and bait casters since I was a schoolboy and the thought of opening up such an unconventional reel fills me with trepidation. But I digress. You are here to read about how I serviced this reel and not about my fears. So before someone catches me for going off course again, and rambling on and on, I’d better do the catching myself.

I’ve heard so much about this reel in the latter half of the preceding decade from friends who dislike eating fried bird’s nest. They speak of this reel with a sort of reverence and awe that’s reserved for something extraordinarily great, and the first thing they mention would be the Hyper Digi Gears from the Saltiga Z reel, that’s also driving this reel. Those gears are made of tougher C6191 alloys which will make this reel last much longer than a regular Certate, which — I understand from hearsay, is already legendary. So, as a consequence, my interest is piqued enough despite my trepidation, to want to crack this reel open to see what is the big deal about.

Taking a look at the external condition

The age is definitely showing in this reel.


Signs of corrosion are beginning to show especially on the joint between the Body and the Side Cover.


Besides corrosion, the clearcoat covering the paintwork have started to flake. Screws show signs of being opened, so some form of servicing must have been performed in it’s lifetime.


Aftermarket Salt Studio round knobs has drilled holes that reflect the drilled Spool skirt and Covers. Matching gold accents reflect those on the reel makes it look like it’s part of the original hardware.



Chrome on the Drag Knob had peeled off and some nicks are peppered on the Spool face but thankfully none are on the Spool’s lip.


The reel felt rough to crank, and there’s freeplay on the Handle. It is time to take a look at the Schematic and prepare my tools to take this legend apart. I hope that by sharing these photos, and the steps that I took to put it all back together, you too can be persuaded to crack open your reel to do some maintenance.

I’ve once said that there are two occasions I spend “quality time” with my reel — the first is when I take the reel apart, to lubricate and coat internals with grease for preventive maintenance against galvanic corrosion. This is also that vital time when the reel will “tell me” whether it can be trusted to perform the task ahead with confidence. The next time I bond with my reel will be the time when rod, reel, line and lure are as one with my arm, picking a quarrel with fish.

For those who are still too afraid to take their reel apart, let’s start small and do the easy and essential things first. In fact, beside removing the line, I think the following three sections (The Drag, the Line Roller and The Handle Knob) are essential maintenance steps to be taken after every excursion your reel makes to salt water.

But first, get a copy of the CERTATE-3000-HYPER Schematic enlarged and ready for use before taking the reel apart.

Servicing The Drag

Here’s the Spool with it’s drag stack removed and cleaned. It’s interesting to note that spinning reels are still using felt as drag washers.


Coat the insides of the #7 Spool with Drag Grease.


Coat the washers with Drag Grease and stack them as follows:
#4 Felt Washer
#6 Metal Washer
#4 Felt Washer
#5 Metal Washer (with 4 legs facing upwards)
#4 Felt Washer
Drag Grease will get the pieces to stick together.


Flip the the assembled stack over and drop into its housing with the four legs of #5 Metal Washer seated snugly into four holes in the spool.


Grease #3 Click Plate with Drag Grease and install with the concave side facing outwards.


Snap on #2 Drag Washer (Circlip) to secure the drag stack and it’s completed!

For those who are wondering what kind of Drag Grease I’m using which is white in colour, it’s Daiwa’s Drag Grease with teflon. It’s a lighter grease than Cal’s.

Servicing the Bail Assembly

Here’s the Bail Assembly stripped and cleaned. Although there’s many springs and tiny pieces, assembly of these are straightforward and it’s unlikely you have small parts flying off, unlike that of a bait caster.

Servicing the Bail Mechanism need only be done once every major service interval (once a year, or immediately after the reel had dropped into salt water or before you put the reel into long term storage). After every use, you simply need to rinse off your reel with fresh water, rinse again in Salt-X solution, dry it thoroughly, and then oil the moving parts with CorrosionX.

You only need to do this once a year

Coat the insides of #20 Rotor with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease to protect against Galvanic Corrosion.


Coat this side of #20 Rotor with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease too. Using a paintbrush, work Cal’s Grease into the vertical grooves and the two holes at the bottom.


Paint #40 Trip Lever with Cal’s Grease and insert the longer leg into the hole at the bottom of #20 Rotor.

Always handle springs with an expectation that they may jump

Paint #41 Spring with Cal’s Grease and install with the triangular point facing left and it’s long leg at the top, pointing to the right. Grease is sticky and tends to slow a spring from flying off and bouncing out of sight should it choose to jump out of your hands.

If you are using a different type of oil or grease from me, do test that your lubricants do not react against each other before mixing them.


Load the long leg of #41 Spring against the wall of #20 Rotor.


Lubricate the insides of #31 Bail Assembly with Cal’s Grease. It’s OK to use more grease as you won’t be visiting these parts again for a long time.


Install #31 Bail Assembly and secure with #32 Screw.


Thread the long end of #33 Shaft through #34 Washer.


Grease #35 Bail Spring with Cal’s Grease and thread the long end of #33 Shaft through it.


Insert the completed Bail Spring assembly into white plastic #36 Holder.


Thickly grease insides of #23 Arm Lever with Cal’s Grease.


Temporarily place completed Bail Spring Assembly on #20 Rotor as shown, with the short hooked end facing outwards. If you have greased thickly, the grease will help hold them in place.


Insert the short hooked end of #33 Shaft into a round hole in #23 Arm Lever.


Secure #23 Arm Lever with #22 Screw.


Compress #35 Bail Spring, insert the peg on white plastic #36 Holder into its hole on #20 Rotor.


Fit on chromed plastic #37 Cover and secure with #38 Screw. Do the same for #39 Cover and #38 Screw on the other side.

Your Bail servicing is done. You need not remove everything till the next major servicing.

Servicing The Line Roller

The Line Roller’s black #26 Ball Bearing is the device that helps keep line from twisting on an Egg-beater type of reel. Unfortunately, it’s also the part that will encounter the most saltwater intrusion under normal use, and will corrode first if not maintained carefully. Remove and carefully de-oil, after rinsing away and neutralising the salt, then dry and relube with CorrosionX after every outing to the sea. Replacement size for this ball bearing is 6mm x 3mm x 2.5mm (OD x ID x thickness), and Daiwa’s part number is 6G281608. However, if you are able to get a fully ceramic OEM ball bearing of this dimension, it will surely cut down your time spent maintaining this part.

Grease and drop tiny little #29 Washer into white plastic #27 Collar and insert them into TiN anodised #28 Line Roller.


Oil #26 Ball Bearing with CorrosionX and install.


Cover with black rubber #25 Shield, taking care to wrap its ends over the flange of #27 Collar.


Grease the insides of #23 Arm Lever and install the assembled Line Roller with black rubber #25 Shield side facing downwards. Grease will help hold it in place.

Install white plastic #30 Collar with the larger flange side facing upwards.


Secure #31Bail Assembly to #23 Arm Lever with slotted #22 Screw. Get used to doing this as you will have to repeat this step after every saltwater excursion to prevent the Ball Bearing from seizing up.

Handle Knob Assembly

In the good old days, our handle knobs can’t be removed, and it only had a brass bushing to keep it turning smoothly. Maintenance then, was to spray WD-40 and keep rotating the handle knob till black and gold coloured liquid comes out the other side. Continue spraying till the oil comes out clean. Then spray dry with compressed air and oil with a couple drops of CorrosionX.

But now-a-days, if the handle knob doesn’t spin freely, it seems like the reel isn’t smooth enough. So with ball bearings to make it free spinning, comes responsibility to service. Thankfully, unlike baitcasters that have two handle knobs, this reel only has one. To keep the ball bearings protected from corrosion, which lessens my servicing chores, I prefer to fill the ball bearings with grease. If you like to know how to remove the ball bearing shields in order to grease the balls, read my step-by-step guide HERE. However, greased ball bearings may be very smooth with minimal maintenance required, but they will not allow your handle knob to spin freely.

If free spinning knobs is your preference, you should oil the ball bearings with CorrosionX and keep up the maintenance after every outing to saltwater because the ball bearing closest the Handle is the one most likely to corrode from saltwater intrusion. Replacement Ball Bearing sizes for this pair are 7mm x 4mm x 2.5mm (OD x ID x thickness). Again, if you replace them with full-ceramic ball bearings, you can cut down this maintenance step.

If you need to see a detailed step-by-step guide to servicing your handle knob, you can read it at HERE. After lubrication, reassemble in the order shown on the photo above.

The Legendary Internals


I’m not trying to fan the fires of a Shimano vs Daiwa argument here, but after taking apart this reel, the paltry number of parts on this compared to a Shimano Stella, makes this Certate Hyper look simple indeed. Hahaha!

However, I’m the type that prefer having a simple, well engineered reel to one with a host of complicated little parts which perform the same function as would a simple one.

So my hats off to Daiwa engineers. They have built a product with genuine concern for the user. By simplifying, they have effectively empowered the user to be able to maintain the reel themselves at home. Ancient Chinese man saying: A reel well maintained at home last longer than a reel sent to factory for maintenance when it not working anymore.



The Hyper Digi Gear doesn’t look at all impressive. If anything, it looks like a bronze gear that is attached to a stainless steel shaft by six tiny screws.

However, What impressed me was that for it’s age, the teeth are not very worn down. I guess that’s thanks to the design of the teeth and the metal combination they work against.


Paint on #70 Side Cover had oxidised since the layer of protective Clearcoat has cracked and started to flake.


Paintwork on the #55 Body is no better.


Paint on #58 Stopper Lever had wrinkled up.

Cover with Marine Grease to withstand Corrosion

With a paintbrush, coat the internals of #55 Body, with a layer of Quicksilver 2-4-C marine grease, taking care to work the grease into all nooks and crannies. For those who want to know why I like to smear my reels with smelly and messy grease, HERE’s a test I did which sealed my trust in the product to prevent corrosion.


Lubricate #73 Ball Bearing with CorrosionX and install. The replacement size for this part is 13mm x 7mm x 4mm (OD x ID x thickness) and Daiwa’s part number is 6G467301.


There was a copper #74 washer on the right side #75 Cover, although it was not listed in the schematic. I’ll fit it back as I found it first. Later, if adjustments are needed, I could move it around or remove it.


Coat insides of #75 Cover and mount to the right side.


Grease the threads of three #76 Screws and secure #75 Cover.

Install the Oscillating Drive

There’s a black rubber #63 O Ring B that is mated to cast iron #64 Osc Gear.


Rubber #63 O Ring B can be bent and stretched to couple with #64 Osc Gear.


Here’s what they look like coupled.


Steel #66 washer is very thin and fragile. Handle with care.


Seat #66 Washer into #64 Osc Gear.


Drop a drop of CorrosionX oil on #67 Ball Bearing and insert into #64 Osc Gear. The size of this Ball Bearing is 8mm x 5mm x 2.5mm (OD x ID x thickness) and Daiwa’s part number is 6G466201.


Thin steel #62 Washer is also very flimsy. Handle with care and paint on a layer of Cal’s Grease.


Install #64 Osc Gear and secure with #68 Screw, taking care not to overtorque. Work Cal’s grease between the teeth of #64 Osc Gear and on the stump with rubber #65 O Ring.


Coat #58 Stopper Lever with Cal’s Grease and insert through #55 Body. Grease #59 A/R Cam Spring and install with the short tag end pointing up the handle.


Press #59 A/R Cam Spring down into its housing and work the #58 Stopper lever to make sure it’s held in place and turns smoothly.


Fill the slot of #15 Main Shaft with Cal’s grease. Oil the Ball Bearings with CorrosionX


Thread #15 Main Shaft through #55 Body and seat the stump with rubber #65 O Ring on #64 Osc Gear into the slot on #15 Main Shaft.

Install the Driving Gears

Work Cal’s Grease between the teeth of pinion #51 Gear Set and thread through tiny metal #52 Washer.


Oil #53 Ball Bearing with CorrosionX and install. The size of this Ball Bearing is 10mm x 6mm x 3mm (OD x ID x thickness). Daiwa’s part number is 6G507601.


Lastly, install white plastic #54 Pinion Collar.


Thread pinion assembly #51 down #15 Main Shaft to seat #53 Ball Bearing and #54 Pinion Collar into their housing on #55 Body.


Grease the two sets of gear teeth on (main gear) #69 Gear Set with Cal’s Grease.


Install #69 Gear Set, then work it by turning clockwise or counterclockwise to ensure the gears are all meshed.


Touch up the edges of #55 Body with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease that may have smeared away, hook the tip of black rubber #56 Brake Plate into its hole on the Body.


#56 Brake Plate hooks around the #55 Body.


Protect #70 Side Cover with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease.


Install #70 Side Cover, taking care it pressed the tag end of #56 Brake Plate into #55 Body.


Secure #70 Side Cover with three Philips head #71 Screws.


Flip the reel over.


Secure #56 Brake Plate with #57 Screw.


Lube #73 Ball Bearing with CorrosionX and install. The size of this ball bearing is the same as that on the opposite side, 13mm x 7mm x 4mm and Daiwa’s part number is 6G467301.


This left side #75 Cover has 3 pieces of #74 Washers — a thin steel piece, another even thinner piece and a thick brass piece. The 2 steel pieces are not described in the CERTATE-3000-HYPER Schematic.

I’ll grease with Cal’s Grease and install them the way I found them for now.


Secure #75 Cover with three slotted #76 Screws.


Screw on #77 Handle Screw.


Cap on chromed plastic #60 Rear Cover and secure with slotted #61 Screw.


Lube #50 Ball Bearing with CorrosionX and insert (Pinion) #51 Gear Set through. The size of this ball bearing is 14mm x 7mm x 5mm. Daiwa’s part number is 6G535101.


Secure with metal #48 Retainer and three #49 Screws.

Install the Antireverse

Oil #47 Sleeve with CorrosionX and insert down (Pinion) #51 Gear Set with its broader end facing outwards.

Do not grease this part or Antireverse may fail.


Oil #46 Roller Clutch with CorrosionX and install with the broad gap of its case facing #58 Stopper Lever.


Oil #45 Clutch Cam with CorrosionX and connect the pin of #58 Stopper Lever while coupling with the splines of #46 Roller Clutch.


Oil #44 Retainer with CorrosionX and lock #46 Roller Clutch in place.


Close up with #42 Retainer and fasten with two Philips Head #43 Screws.

Installing the Rotor

#17 Ball Bearing is sleeved with a white plastic #18 Collar. Drop a few drops of CorrosionX and work it into #17 Ball Bearing. The size of this Ball Bearing is 8mm x 5mm x 2.5mm (OD x ID x thickness) and Daiwa’s part number is 6G466201.


Seat #17 Ball Bearing over #18 Collar.


Seat #17 Ball Bearing with #18 Collar into #19 Rotor Nut.


Secure #17 Ball Bearing with #16 Retainer.


Grease #20 Rotor and the protruding bit of #40 Trip Lever with Cal’s Grease.


Grease the tripping ramp on #55 Body with Cal’s Grease.


Install #20 Rotor and secure with #19 Rotor Nut.


Grease the threads of #21 Screw. Install to lock #19 Rotor Nut in place.

Installing the Spool Mount

Grease (Spool Mount) #13 Spool Metal with Cal’s Grease.


Insert brass #79 Washer (not named on schematic).


Lubricate #11 Spring Holder with Cal’s Grease and insert white Teflon #10 Spool Washer.


Thread the middle of #12 Click Spring through the smaller window in #11 Spring Holder.


Thread each leg of #12 Click Spring through the larger window of #11 Spring Holder.


Seat #11 Spring Holder assembly over (Spool Mount) #13 Spool Metal.


Install (Spool Mount) assembly #13 Spool Metal and secure to #15 Main Shaft with #14 Pin.


Lubricate #9 Ball Bearing with CorrosionX and install to lock #14 Pin in place. The size of this Ball Bearing is 11mm x 7mm x 3mm (OD x ID x thickness). Daiwa’s part number is 6G522701.


Secure with circle #8 Retainer. This part tends to jump off and get lost. Daiwa’s part number is 6G525101.

Lubes I used

There’s primarily two lubes that I used for this reel — Cal’s Grease (Gold Label) and CorrosionX (or ReelX). Additionally, I use Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine grease to protect metal parts against saltwater’s eroding effects. You can choose to use your own favourite oils and greases, but because different brands of lubes may chemically react against each other and form gum, it’s prudent that you test mix all the lubes you intend to use and leave it to react for a few months before you decide it is safe to mix.

As for these three lubes, I’ve found them to get along well with each other. If you are curious why I prefer to use Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease, I’ve done a long-term test HERE.

Finishing Up

After fixing on the Spool and Handle, I found there’s some free play in the (Main Gear) #69 Gear Set. I removed the copper #74 Washer from the Right Side #75 Cover and moved it to the left side instead. At this setting, all free play in the (Main Gear) #69 is gone, but cranking felt a little heavy. I further fine tuned by removing a piece of the thicker steel washer to get a lighter cranking feel while still retaining minimal free play in the (Main Gear) #69.

I was however, disappointed to notice gear noise coming from the reel although the reel is now smooth. A look at Plat.co.jp website revealed the reason — “Since they are very hard material gear, there is gear sound at the time of rotation. It may be the sound felt rather than normal CERTATE.” Ah so! Now I know.

I hope this step-by-step guide would help you to service your own reel.

Do drop a comment below if just to say Hi.

God Bless!

LL

PS:
A summary of the Ball Bearing Sizes for this reel are:
#9 Spool Support Ball Bearing: 11mm x 7mm x 3mm
#17 Rotor Nut Ball Bearing: 8mm x 5mm x 2.5mm
#26 Line Roller Ball Bearing: 6mm x 3mm x 2.5mm
#50 Pinion Big Ball Bearing: 14mm x 7mm x 5mm
#53 Pinion Small Ball Bearing: 10mm x 6mm x 3mm
#67 Osc Gear Ball Bearing: 8mm x 5mm x 2.5mm
#73 Main Gear Bearing: 13mm x 7mm x 4mm (2 pieces)
All dimensions are measured OD x ID x Thickness.

Text and Images © Lawrence Lee
All Rights Reserved
If you want to use any content for your own publication, please write me @ Lee.TC.Lawrence@gmail.com

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