SERVICING — ABU Revo BigShooter WM60L

SERVICING – ABU Revo BigShooter WM60L

I simply couldn’t offer any reason why I keep making pre-order reservations for ABU Garcia Revo reels. The marketing material posted on Purefishing.jp website described this as a large capacity, high speed, low-profile bait casting reel for every big game!! The terminology in itself sounded suspect — low-profile, bait casting reels can never be associated with big game fishing; and added to that, my disappointment with the finishing on my Revo STX and Revo LTZ AE-74 Racing, I asked myself if I had made a wise decision to buy this reel, when the Daiwa Lexa and Shimano Tranx are readily available…

So after a long wait till November 2015, a package from Naturum Japan dropped onto my lap and in it was this ABU Revo BigShooter WM60 reel. Oh what joy! It’s just in time for a trip to Borneo for Black Bass, spooled up with 50lb Power Pro and fixed to a Dear Monster MX-∞ Rod. But alas, that was not to be. At that time, the worst forest fires ever recorded had blanketed the region with a suffocating haze. With flights getting in and out of the small Bornean domestic airport becoming unreliable, we thought it better to cancel our trip. Such are the best laid out plans of man, to be mercilessly overruled by nature, or was that the result of man’s greed… But I digress.

It is my custom to open every reel up to inspect and add lubricants to the components (if needed) before I ever use the reel. So this reel is no exception. I began by taking photos of what I have before me. I hope that by sharing the photos, you too can be persuaded to crack open your reel to do some maintenance. I believe that there are two occasions that I spend “quality time bonding time” with my reel — the first is when I take the reel apart, to lubricate and coat internals with grease for preventive maintenance against galvanic corrosion. This is also that vital time when the reel will “tell me” whether it can be trusted to perform the task ahead with confidence. The other time I bond with my reel will be the time rod, reel, line and lure is joined to my hand like a complete machine, seeking out fish to pick a quarrel with them.

Bold but elegant packaging

Bold red accent with white graphics contrast nicely against a matt-laminated black cardboard background.



There’s some things that are best done with the right hand, and some with the left; (get your minds out of the gutter). For me, I find left hand cranking very natural for egg-beater type reels, while my right hand is more competent at cranking conventional reels. I don’t know why this is the case for me. Perhaps, it’s because my first spinning reel I had when I was 12, was a left hander, and so my right index finger had become so accustomed to hooking the line for a cast that if I were to get a reel that’s right hand crank, I’d fumble with opening the bail arm. My left hand is also the better at catching the sea worms while the right manipulates the sock of bait. And I can never feel comfortable picking my nose with my any finger on my right hand. Only my left pinkie finger is honoured to do that job. But before I again, start to go off tangent, I better come back to the task at hand. Now where was I?

This is my first left handed reel. My wife Candice, prefers to crank with her left hand, and we needed different sets of the same gear because of this. But after fumbling with her gear for a while, I’ve managed to teach my left hand to wind almost as well as my right, and getting left handed reels made more economical sense from thence. So I have her to thank for making me ambidextrous when it comes to fishing.



I had wondered what the letters WM stood for in the model name. I read somewhere which I’m now not able to recall, that WM stands for World Monster, so this low profile bait casting reel is capable of challenging monster-sized fishes from anywhere in the world. The technical nomenclature seem to bear this out:

7 ball bearings mean there’s no luxury of extra bearings for smoothness, but in a remote part of the planet with no chance of servicing nor parts replacement, there’s also less ball bearings to corrode and these can grind the reel to a halt if these little things are given a chance to rust. So less is more!

A 7.6 gear ratio doesn’t seem fast when compared to Daiwa’s 9.1 Zillion, but it’s a perfect balance between cranking power (when matched with its 105mm handle); a larger pinion gives longevity to be able to bear with the rigours of a 22lb drag; yet, it’s still no sloth — being able to retrieve up to 107cm of line per turn of the handle.

It can hold 210m of PE5 Fireline which is plenty for fish such as Black Bass that doesn’t swim long distances, and compared to the benchmark Shimano Tranx 500HG, the ¥25,680 asking price for this reel is a steal!



But my first sign of disappointment to come lay hidden in the words at the bottom of the box “Made In Korea”. My last two Revo reels, the Revo STX and the Revo LTZ AE74-Racing were both made in Korea and were shameful pieces of poor manufacturing tolerance and cheap plastic. Will this reel share the same characteristics?

It’s not Small

Right out of the box, this reel astounds with its size. Photos do not adequately describe it’s bulk. In my mind, I had a biased perception that a low profile bait caster is a tiny reel that will fit into the palm of my hand. So mentally I have already expected to see this reel that way. But boy oh boy, how wrong was I! Each handle knob on this reel is the size of my Revo LTZ AE-74 Racing reel’s spool! Now how’s that for size?



The reel came with a black cloth reel bag, a bottle of lubricant, a chromed wrench cum screwdriver, a User’s Card which bear a serial number that doesn’t match anything on the reel, a printed schematic and two sheets of owner’s manual that’s printed in Japanese text.

Different Views of the Reel

Due to the deep spool, the Line Guide is oval shaped. Levelwind is semi-synchronised — it disengages to enable longer casting distances, but will follow the lay of the line when it is pulled out under drag tension. A synchronised levelwind will help maintain even drag tension. Levelwind Pawl is even coated with a DLC coating to enhance durability.

Gearbox doesn’t overhang the reel a lot, but it’s much thicker — I’m eagerly anticipating to see the new Power Stack Carbon Matrix drag behind it. Fit and finish is a disappointment with side plates not aligning perfectly with the frame.



Thumb rest share design cues with the Revo LTZ AE-74 Racing — drilled holes of descending size extending toward the middle of the thumb rest.



Matt finish on Aluminium alloy frame is another design element that this massive reel share with the diminutive Revo LTZ AE-74 Racing.

Long handle and huge Grips

EVA foam knobs are huge in size, ensuring a firm and warm grip in any battle. TiN coloured dimples reflect the styling cues of this reel.



The End Caps of each handle knob is an elaborate show of bling. TiN coated chamfers accent the slots and porting, but it’s a pity that tolerances aren’t as tight, and the slight gap between this End Cap and the EVA knob may one windy day, catch on to some line.



At 105mm long, the handles can put on a lot of power to subdue stubborn fish. ABU designers had been almost fastidious in making sure that the gold coloured TiN accents are carried through in all aspects of the reel, but the raw metal Handle Nut sticks out glaringly. The cheap black locking screw used to hold this Handle Nut in place look like the corporate bean counters have been at work — so you see 3 gold rings on one handle and two on the other. An Alan screw head with its rim TiN coated would have perfected this design concept.

Design Oversight?

Raw-metal coloured Handle Nut with its cheap locking screw. In fairness, This Handle Nut is very well thought out. It is actually a bolt which make it easier to screw in to hold the handle in the Main Gear Shaft than would the conventional hex nut with a decorative cap sported by other reels. The scalloped edges of the Handle Nut also make it easier to know where to stop tightening, than arbitrary dots punched onto the handles of other reels. And because this is a Left handed reel, the laser etched directional arrow for unlocking is a very thoughtful addition.

Printed Literature

I cannot read Japanese text. But somehow, I believe this to be the warranty card for this reel. But the serial number on this card do not tally with anything on this reel. The multi-purpose key wrench is a nice thing to have in order to make field maintenance of the reel a possibility.



I’m really thankful that the parts on this schematic are in English.



Unfortunately, the Owner’s Manual and another sheet which I think is the warranty, are in Japanese text.

Well lubricated Reel

Brake Knob is knurled for friction. Chamfered edge carries the gold TiN coated design element through, while the Swedish Royal Coat of Arms is laser etched on the crown. There however, is a tiny hole (to the left of the coat of arms) that had been in this Knob on all the Revo models. It allow water to get into the cap and foul the Spool bearing. What is the purpose of this?



Removing this Brake Knob, reveals the Spool Bearing to be greased. The very fine threads on this Brake Knob is TiN coated, ensuring fine adjustment for braking control as well as long service life.



Cheap plastic moulding show signs of file marks (below the BigShooter name) were not properly polished off the mould before it went into production.



This reel was covered with a layer of sticky oily substance that attracted dust like magnets.



Signs of grease peeping out behind the Star Wheel is a comforting thought that ABU Factory staff took the effort to properly lubricate this reel before it left the plant.



In my honest opinion, the parts fit too imprecisely to label these words on the reel, since I’ve always come to associate Swedish Engineering to be precise like the Germans and Swiss.

Good Amount of Drain Holes

Water draining holes are positioned all over, ensuring that should the reel take a dunking, it’s internal components would not be left soaking in water for long.



Reel foot number does not tally with the warranty card number.



Here, draining holes can be seen for the spool flanges, the Gear and Palm Sideplates. Quick access window allow easy access for greasing of the Main Gear without the need to take reel apart.

Korean imPerfection

The ABU Factory in Korea have very poor finishing quality. Here, you can see grinding marks left behind on the frame below the sticker.



More poor finishing: this Slide Cam Housing was glued to the Palm Sideplate and excess glue had oozed out covering the seam near the “MAX” sign and was not cleaned up. The moulding of these plastic parts also show scratches, gouges and rough edges.



Even the Silkscreening of ABU’s logo is smudged.

Quick Release Spool Change

Fitting is so rough that often, it’s difficult to secure the Palming Sideplate with Cam Lock Screw.



Lines etched on the Spool flanges in gold TiN represent spool volume. The innermost ring marks ¼ spool, the following ring outward is ⅓ spool, ½ spool, ⅔ spool and ¾ spool.
.



#108 Ball Bearing on this spool Shaft is 12mm x 6mm x 4mm (OD x ID x Thickness).



Infiniti Max Braking system employs both Magnetic brakes as well as Centrifugal Brakes. For very minimal braking, 3 of the centrifugal pellets have spring retractors to pull them in when braking force is not required. The other three are constantly engaged pellets like the brakes of old. Each pellet can be clicked home and disabled so an infinite number of braking combinations can be applied together with the magnetic brakes which can be fine-tuned on the fly via a dial.

Now that we have seen the reel, let’s begin the process of stripping down the reel.

Lots of Grease


Insides of the reel have a coating of a high viscous oil. This should help the reel stay corrosion free for a while. Thumbs up to ABU for this.

Fully Stripped Reel

Here’s the reel, stripped down of all its serviceable parts. Compared to the Shimanos and Daiwas, ABU engineers have managed to make a 22lb drag power winching machine with a minimum of parts. Other than the handle knobs, magnets and braking pellets, there’s probably nothing else that can be further taken apart. So this should be a really simple to maintain reel, a trait I like in all Ambassadeurs.

After stripping off all serviceable parts, I found that this reel had indeed been well coated with a thick viscous clear oil. This would be excellent protection against galvanic corrosion. If your reel is like mine, you don’t need to strip off everything from your WM60, and can save yourself much trouble fighting with springs and fiddly bits when reinstalling the freespool mechanism. In the text below, I’ll refer to parts by the Schematic #No. as well as the name found on the schematic, (odd as some may sound to me).

Begin the reassembly

I’ll begin the reassembly from here — #38 Clutch Plate is secured by 2 pieces of #39 Screws and the bigger #40 Screw. In the photo above, you see my #1 Frame is covered by Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease. That’s because I’ve stripped away all parts and had cleaned off the viscous transparent oil that ABU used, just in case it will react with the grease that I’m using.



Grease #51 Main Gear Shaft with Cal’s Grease. Drop #49 Main Gear Shaft Plate over that.



#48 Ball Bearing does not have seals that can be replaced. I oiled it with ReelX and dropped it over #49 Main Gear Shaft Plate. I’ll use it as is till it corrodes, then I’ll replace it with a fully ceramic bearing or one with replaceable shields where I can repack the races full of grease. The size for this #48 Ball Bearing is 11mm x 5mm x 4mm.



Grease the copper #47 Washer with Cal’s Grease and drop it on top of #48 Ball Bearing.



Secure with #46 Retainer.



Insert #51 Main Gear Shaft assembly into its housing in #1 Frame. Secure with 2 Philips Head #50 Screws.

Levelwind Assembly

Ensure that all holes and corners on #1 Frame is protected against galvanic corrosion with grease. Thread #14 Line Guide Shaft through #4 Line Guide, and install in its corresponding holes on #1 Frame with the grooved end facing the cranking side.



Secure #14 Line Guide Shaft with #15 Retainer.



Grease #7 Worm Shaft with Cal’s Grease.
Pack #8 Ball Bearing with grease. The size is 7mm x 4mm x 2.5mm. Thread the end of #7 Worm Shaft where there’s a tiny hole, through #8 Ball Bearing.
Thread the end of #7 Worm Shaft where there’s a tiny hole, through #9 Worm Shaft Gear.
Secure with #10 Worm Shaft Pin.



Insert #6 Level Wind Tube through #4 Line Guide and into #1 Frame.



Pass #7 Worm Shaft assembly through #6 Level Wind Tube, with the #8 Ball Bearing and #9 Worm Shaft Gear facing the cranking side. Take note too, how #10 Worm Shaft Pin sits within a groove of #9 Worm Shaft Gear. If it is not, you will not be able to secure the other side.



The other end of #7 Worm Shaft has a groove. It should be on the palming side.



Observe how the tongue on #11 Worm Shaft Pin Holder and the shaped centre protrusion will fit into corresponding slots on #6 Level Wind Tube.



Protect #1 Frame with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease and fit in #11 Worm Shaft Pin Holder. If the #10 Worm Shaft Pin had slipped off its groove on #9 Worm Shaft Gear, your #7 Worm Shaft will appear to be too short like the photo above.



Grease the copper #12 Washer with Cal’s Grease and install.



Secure #7 Worm Shaft with #13 Retainer.



Drop a drop of ReelX oil on DLC Coated #16 Pawl.
Insert into #4 Line Guide.
Drop in copper #17 Washer.
Turn #9 Worm Shaft Gear with one hand while you press copper #17 Washer with another. Do this till you feel #16 Pawl had tracked into the grooves of #7 Worm Shaft and the #4 Line Guide is moving as you turn #9 Worm Shaft Gear.



Carefully screw on #18 Line Guide Nut, taking care not to cross thread and not to over tighten because #4 Line Guide is made of Delrin, a type of plastic.



Grease #51 Main Gear Shaft and #53 Ratchet with Cal’s Grease, and install with the rounded side of #53 Ratchet facing outwards.



With the great amount of drag that WM60 can generate, it has an additional Anti Reverse dog called #52 Stopper to support the #63 One Way Clutch. Clasp the tabs of #52 Stopper to #53 Ratchet, taking care to orientate the dog’s jaw in the direction of cranking. In this photo, the #52 Stopper is oriented for a Left Hand cranking reel. Fixing it wrong way around will cause your reel to be unable to turn the handle.
Hang #52 Stopper onto its post on #1 Frame.



Oil Copper #20 Washer with CorrosionX and thread to it’s post on #1 Frame.



Drop in White Plastic #21 Level Wind Gear and copper #22 Washer.



Grease #23 Level Wind Gear Bushing with Cal’s Grease and install.



Insert #19 Level Wind Gear Shaft through #1 Frame.



Secure with Philips head #24 Screw.



Touch up 2-4-C Marine Grease that might have smeared away on #1 Frame, insert plastic #35 Front Cover. Dab a small dab of grease and work it into the threads of #36 Screw. Secure to #1 Frame.



Repeat the process for #36 Screw on the other side.

Weak Dry Drags
Before I cracked open this reel, I had spooled in 50lbs Fireline and tested the drag rating. It was a disappointment. At full spool, the reel could only bring the Boga’s scale down to a miserable 6lbs on full lockdown. I was shocked how ABU could overstate it’s drag capability when it’s so low. On top of that, the drag suffered a lot of startup inertia and was not smooth at all when fully locked down. I felt like I’ve really been conned good this time.

When I opened the reel, the drags were all run dry. That might be the reason why it’s not smooth at full lockdown. I decided not to grease the carbon fibre washers, but apply a thin layer of Cal’s Grease on all the metal washers. Hopefully, this will enable the drag washers to maintain friction while reducing startup inertia and jerkiness.

Thread #51 Main Gear Shaft through #54 Drag Washer.



Insert #55 Worm Shaft Drive Gear. There are two pegs protruding on one side. These pegs should face outwards.



There’s no Ball Bearing to support #43 Pinion. This will cause some friction on the spool shaft when casting, and also cost the reel some smoothness when cranking. But when you’re away on an expedition to a faraway place, you cannot have the luxury of servicing the gear as often as you will like, and replacement parts may be totally unavailable. Since the Pinion Support Ball Bearing is always one of the first to corrode away, I felt this is a good thing that ABU Engineers thought it unnecessary to use a ball bearing here.

Knowing this, I polished the insides of #43 Pinion and the shaft of #107 Spool with some Autosol Chrome Polish till they shine like a mirror. Then I washed them thoroughly to make sure that all traces of the polish is removed.

Grease #41 Yoke with Cal’s Grease and hang #43 Pinion. Install onto the two posts of #38 Clutch Plate.



Work Cal’s Grease carefully between all the teeth of #56 Main Gear and #43 Pinion.
Install #56 Main Gear taking care to engage the two pegs on #55 Worm Shaft Drive Gear to the corresponding holes.

Installing the Drag Stack

WM60’s drag stack is housed in this new invention called #57 Washer Drum. ABU Engineers reason that with a conventional three carbon washer drag, only three metal washers are effecting drag friction. The carbon washers are what the metal plates work against and do not effect friction. So with WM60’s Carbon #59 Drag Washers having a gear shape and engaged to this #57 Washer Drum which is locked in place by pegs to the #56 Main Gear, all five pieces would be put to work, effecting greater drag pressure yet reducing drag jerkiness and startup inertia.

I found this to be utterly untrue with my reel. As you can see from the picture, some of the carbon drag weave had scoured off when I tested at full drag lockdown and now a bald patch had formed.

Insert Carbon #59 Drag Washer into #57 Washer Drum.



Very lightly grease Cal’s Grease to the metal #60 Drag Washer and drop into #57 Washer Drum.



Insert second Carbon #59 Drag Washer into #57 Washer Drum.



Very lightly grease Cal’s Grease to the second metal #60 Drag Washer and drop into #57 Washer Drum.



Finally, insert Carbon #59 Drag Washer into #57 Washer Drum.



Drop #57 Washer Drum into #56 Main Gear and twist until the pegs engage with holes on #56 Main Gear.



Lightly Grease #61 Pressure Washer with Cal’s Grease and install with convex side facing outwards.



Oil #78 IAR Sleeve with ReelX and slide down ##51 Main Gear Shaft.



Insert each #42 Spring to a post on #38 Clutch Plate.
Set #1 Frame aside.



#63 One Way Clutch Bearing must not be greased or you can lose instant anti reverse. Clean off all traces of grease and oil with ReelX.
Secure with #77 Ring.



Repack #80 Ball Bearing with grease and install. The Size for this Ball Bearing is 18mm x 12mm x 4mm.



Secure with #77 Ring.



Since this reel is gonna be used mainly for expeditions where maintenance is minimal, and I don’t expect to be casting light lures with this reel, I will stay away from using too light an oil for the spool bearings. The lighter the oil, the lower the amount of protection it gives, so in this case, ReelX oil strikes the best compromise between protection and viscosity. You can also use the bottle of oil that came with this reel for the three spool bearings.

Oil #69 Ball Bearing with ReelX and install. The size for this #69 Ball Bearing is 10mm x 3mm x 4mm. The #105 Ball Bearing on #92 Palm Sideplate is also this size.



Secure #69 Ball Bearing with #70 Ring.



Drop in #Click Washer, taking care to match pegs on its underside to grooves in the #62 Gear Sideplate housing.



Oil the threads on #76 Brake Knob with ReelX.
Drop in #75 Click Washer and adjust till a peg on its underside mates with a hole in #76 Brake Knob. Oil with ReelX.
Drop in copper #72 Click Spring.
Drop in tiny black #74 Rubber Washer followed by Phenolic Resin #73 Friction Washer and add one drop of ReelX oil.



Install #76 Brake Knob to #62 Gear Side Plate. Tighten until you hear the clicking sound, then back off a turn.

Finishing Up

Attach #62 Gear Side Plate to #1 Frame. Work 2-4-C Marine Grease into the threads of both #81 Screws and fasten to the back of the reel.
Similarly, work 2-4-C Marine Grease into the threads of #82 Screw and fasten to the Thumb Rest.



Grease threads of #51 Main Gear Shaft with Cal’s Grease.
Drop in gold-coloured #85 Washer and grease.



I suspected that the #86 Spring Washers on my reel were undersized which gave the poor drag results. So I replaced them with a pair from Shimano Torium 16.
Grease the Belleville Washers of the Torium 16 with Cal’s Grease and install opposed with concave sides facing each other like this: ()



Grease #87 Click Spring Holder and #88 Click Spring with Cal’s Grease and install.



Oppose the smaller #89 Spring Washers. Grease and install.



Grease the cup of #90 Star Wheel and install.



Grease #91 Washer and install.

Note the Direction to Lock

Install #125 Handle Complete.
Attach plastic #121 Washer to #122 Handle Nut. Work grease into the threads of #122 Handle Nut and secure.



Tighten drag till maximum, then tighten #122 Handle Nut.
Secure #122 Handle Nut with the black #123 Screw.



Insert #83 Lube Port into #62 Gear Side Plate and Secure with #84 Screw.

Wet a piece of cloth with Simple Green and wipe off all the excess grease that had oozed out.



Install #107 Spool, #126 Palm Sideplate Complete, attach to a good strong rod and let’s go fishing!



My wife didn’t have any problem bringing this Mekong Catfish in with this reel.

Now if Only I am Skilful Enough to Catch a Big Fish…



With Torium 16’s Belleville Springs and a lightly greased drag stack, I was able to get very smooth, judder-free drag all the way up to full lockdown. At almost full lockdown on a full spool of line, the drag will pay line out smoothly at 22lbs pressure. Full lockdown pulls the Boga down to 25lbs on a full spool. That means the drag pressure will be many many times more if a fish takes line out to mid spool. Teamed to a stiff Dear Monster MX-∞, I can cast lures as light as 20g even with the thick 50lb line.

Replacing the twin handle with an aftermarket long single handle, the reel can be used for jigging.

So far, no fish had been able to defy this setup. From Mekong Catfish, Dog-Eating Catfish to the dirty fighting Red Tail Catfish above, I had been totally in control of the fight. But I’m not skilful enough to hook up a really big fish to test the tackle. Now to look for bigger game to challenge this setup.

After the slight modification, I’m now very confident with this reel’s ability to slow down a determined, hard charging Black Bass from making a home run. My only disappointment now is the reel’s cheap plasticky finish.

I hope this will help in servicing your reel.

Do drop a comment below, if just to say Hi.

God Bless!

LL

PS:
A summary of the Ball Bearing Sizes for this reel are:
#8 Level Wind Ball Bearing: 7mm x 4mm x 2.5mm
#48 Main Gear Shaft Small Ball Bearing: 11mm x 5mm x 4mm
#69 & #105 Spool Bearings: 10mm x 3mm x 4mm
#80 Main Gear Shaft Big Ball Bearing: 18mm x 12mm x 4mm
#108 Spool Shaft Big Bearing: 12mm x 6mm x 4mm
All dimensions are measured OD x ID x Thickness.

Text and Images © Lawrence Lee
All Rights Reserved
If you want to use any content for your own publication, please write me @ Lee.TC.Lawrence@gmail.com

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8 responses to “SERVICING — ABU Revo BigShooter WM60L

  1. Very nice review! I have been looking for this kind of review about Big Shooter 60WM and I found it here. There is one more information that I would like to have. The purefishing says that this reel has “semi synchronized level wind”. I am very curious about this “semi”. Analysing your photos and also reel’s schematic, I guess that its level wind system is not synchronized. Is it new level wind system or just an new denomination for “disengaging level wind system”?
    Thank you!

    • The WM-60L’s Semi synchronised levelwind is similar to that of the Daiwa Alphas R-Edition.

      When you cast, the levelwind doesn’t move.
      When you crank in line, the levelwind moves from left to right to keep line levelled on the spool.
      When fish pulls line out, levelwind moves left and right following the line lay, to keep drag pressure consistent.

      Hope that helps.

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