SERVICING – Daiwa Z2020 SH

The owner of this Daiwa is well familiar with reel servicing himself, but passed this on to me so that I can make a step-by-step tutorial as many people were asking about one for this reel.

As usual, let’s begin by taking a look at this reel before I crack it open.

Understated elegant packaging – silver hotstamping on semi matt black corrugated carton box.

The reel has real metal cladding on the outside

Unlike other reels with faux metal shells, this reel use real stamped metal for the outsides other than the palming sideplate (#84). Aftermarket red RCS shallow spool matches the colour trim of this reel.

12mm shallow hex head is a bolt instead of the conventional handle nut. Saves weight as the drive shaft is hollowed to accommodate this bolt.

Although it looks small in photos, it’s not puny in person

Knurled, shielded and discreet

Cast control dial (#91) is tucked away behind the palming plate. It is knurled and is easy to adjust even when my hand is grease covered and each setting stops in a positive click detent. Daiwa offers a 0 braking option which is nice. Some reels like Bogan and Revo will still exert some braking force even when at Minimum.

Knurled Thumb bar (#25) visually reflects the knurling on Cast Control Cap (#10).

Here’s a copy of the Schematic
Click here for Z2020 Schematic
Since the Schematic is in Japanese, I’ll be naming the parts according to what I think describes their purpose best. I’ve also included the part number in parenthesis so that you can refer to this schematic to verify that we are both looking at the same part in question.

Stripping down the reel

Loosen a thumbscrew and lift off the Palming Sideplate (#84). To remove the spool, loosen slot head screw at the Cast Control Dial (#118) and rotate Magforce spool cover (#88) counter clockwise

Aftermarket shallow RCS spool

Braking Inductor (#110) and it’s associated Actuator Blocks (#111), Springs (#112) and E Clip (#114) can be removed. However I’m not doing it in this Step-By-Step as there’s hardly anything to service here. However, if you had accidentally got oil under the Actuator Blocks (#111) then you should de-oil it with some Simple Green and tap water. Oil causes Braking Inductor (#110) to rise prematurely. This will reduce casting distance for those who are accomplished casters.

Remove Ceramic ball bearings for service

Ball bearings on this reel had been replaced with aftermarket SiC hybrid bearings. Spool Ball Bearing (#107) can be removed after Spool Pin (#106) is removed. You need a Spool Pin Removal plier to remove this pin. Small Spool Bearing (#103) is held under Retaining Clip (#104) in the Magforce Magnets Assembly (#88)

Closeup of the Ceramic Ball Bearings

Degrease and run dry or use a dry lubricant like TSI 301. When fitting back, beware the Retaining Clip (#104) jumping out of your fingers!

Hiccups along the way

This Philips screw head (#35) has been rounded and I can’t get to undo the rest of the drive shaft, the sad consequence of liberal threadlock use. I tried applying my soldering iron to it for two minutes and could see oil start to ooze out of the hole in the frame but that screw still wouldn’t budge. I would have used my impact driver on it. But a check with the owner and he says leave it alone.

Dried oxidised grease

The bearings on this reel are the coffee coloured CRBB bearings and should be highly resistant to corrosion. All bearings have pressed in shields. As the owner didn’t want to run the bearings without their shields, I didn’t try to pry the shields out, but only drop a drop of CorrosionX to those bearings.

There was however, one CRBB bearing with removable shields. It is the smaller pinion support bearing (#4). Removing the shields, I’m horrified to see the brown oxidised goop that was keeping this bearing “lubricated”. After seeing this, I’m convinced that I need to get me a ball bearing greaser so those with pressed on shields can get their grease replaced.

Weak Kick Lever

I also noticed that the Kick Lever (#18) is showing wear before any other part is showing any wear.

So here is the reel mechanism all stripped and degreased

Surprisingly, there’s not a whole lot of parts in this reel.

Some may be wondering about the large ratcheting wrench. No, I didn’t use it to crack open anything. It’s there as a support to prop up the frame so that I can take the photos you see here.

There’s some tiny parts in this reel

The line-out clicker (#65 & #66) are really tiny and can get lost if you are not careful when degreasing. Always pour your washed parts into a fine mesh strainer.

Protect with Marine grease

Paint on a coat of marine grease to protect your frame from galvanic corrosion. I use Mercury Quicksilver 2-4-C marine grease with Teflon. You can use any marine-grade grease of your choice.

Take care to also paint the two sides of the frame where the Cresent shaped Side Washers attach to (#23 & #24). This place is often neglected and is a corrosion trap.

Stiff paintbrush helps get grease into the nooks and crannies

When painting on Quicksilver’s 2-4-C grease, I do not think that a thin coat is good enough. I slap it on extravagantly. My faith in this grease grew when I removed the propeller on my Mercury Outboard motor years ago. It was jammed stuck with salt and corroded aluminium and an afternoon of too much grunting, heating, hammering, cursing and cut knuckles was expended just for its removal.

Before I refitted the propeller back, I scrubbed away as much corrosion as I could and coated the shaft and propeller hub thickly with Quicksilver 2-4-C grease. 2 years of weekend saltwater use later, I had fishing line caught up inside the hub again. I was prepared for a long and sweaty struggle but to my amazement, the propeller slipped off easily and I could see no further corrosion! And the only maintenance I did was to run the engine in a pail of fresh water after every use. So that day onward, I just slap on the 2-4-C grease on anything I want to keep free moving and corrosion free. However, do not use excess grease on your gears as it will make cranking too heavy.

Fitting the Levelwind mechanism

Levelwind tube (#37) has one end bigger than the other end. The bigger end also has 2 flattened sides which fit the locking plate (#38)

Grease the holes on frame with a marine grease first, as salt tend to stay at the joints even after rinsing, and start corroding the metal.

Insert the smaller end of Levelwind tube (#37) through frame (#13), Line Guide (#36) and into the palming side of frame (#13).

Pass small end of Stainless Steel shaft (#120) through drive side of frame (#13) and seat it on the palming side of frame.

Stainless Steel shaft (#120) seen in picture above as the white dot at 11 o’clock of Levelwind tube (#37) should seat flush with frame (#13).

Match locking tab (#38) to the flattened sides of Levelwind tube (#37). Note that slot on Levelwind tube (#37) should be facing outwards.

Secure locking tab (#38) with philips head screw (#39)

Refill CRBB Bearing (#41) with a light grease, connect to longer end of Worm Shaft (#40). Mate plastic Worm Gear (#42) to slots on Worm Shaft (#40) and secure with E-Clip (#43).

Grease Worm Shaft (#40) with a light grease

Insert assembled Worm Shaft (#40) into Levelwind tube (#37), engaging plastic Worm Gear (#42) to Drive Shaft Gear (#31).

Always check that you’ve applied grease before installing

Grease holes in Frame (#13) with 2-4-C Marine grease. Refill CRBB bearing (#44) with a light grease and insert into housing in the Frame (#13).

Cover CRBB bearing (#44) with washer (#45).

Secure with E-Clip (#46). Add a drop of CorrosionX to lubricate.

Oil Pawl (#47), Pressure Washer (#48) with CorrosionX and install into Line Guide (#36). Secure with black plastic Tube (#49). Your level wind should look like this so far.

Assembling the clutch and freespool mechanism

Cresent shaped Side Washer (#23 & #24) have L and R marked on them so you would not get them mixed up. Snap them into the appropriate holes in Frame (#13) and ensure you’ve greased those areas with 2-4-C marine grease before you start assembling. You can insert Thumb Bar (#25) without adding grease.

Seat stubs of Kick Lever Pad (#15) into corresponding holes in frame (#13). Secure with Posidrive Screw (#16) Apply a coat of light grease to keep contact surfaces lubricated.

Insert Kick Lever Spring (#17) into hole in Kick Lever Pad (#15).

Connect Kick Lever (#18) to Kick Lever Spring (#17).

Caution Fiddly Stage

Connect white plastic Lift Clutch (#19) to a stud on Kick Lever (#18). Rotate Lift Clutch (#19) counter clockwise to load Kick Lever Spring (#17).

Lift Clutch (#19) must be seated flat on frame (#13).

Insert Clutch Link (#26) through slot in Thumb Bar (#25) and connect to white plastic Lift Clutch (#19) via 2 plastic studs. Secure with Washer (#27) and Screw (#28). Lubricate Lift Clutch (#19) with a light grease.

Clean and relube Pinion Support CRBB Bearing (#14). Saltwater tends to get to this bearing and corrode it. I personally use a light grease for this bearing on my reels. It may feel heavy to crank initially but the protection from grease is worth it IMO. However, if you like a light cranking feel, lubricate this bearing with CorrosionX and clean it after exposure to salt water. I lubricated this bearing with CorrosionX.

Insert black plastic Sleeve (#21) into Pinion Support CRBB Bearing (#14).

Place Yoke Guide (#20) and secure with two Slot Head Screws (#22).

Installing the Drivetrain

Grease and insert two thin Stainless Steel Washers (#60) to the bottom of Drive Shaft (#30).

Coat Ratchet (#55) lightly with Cal’s Grease and install.

Engage tabs of Anti-reverse Dog (#56) around Ratchet (#55). Check that the tabs grip Ratchet (#55). If not, you can carefully fold them inwards to create more grip. Secure Anti-reverse Dog (#56) with E-Clip (#57)

Daiwa got it right that less is more

Insert clear plastic Centering Washer (#58).

Scrub Carbon Fibre Pad (#59) with a brush to fluff it up and install around clear plastic Centering Washer (#58). Reels like Shimano Antares DC use a full drag pad instead of this plastic Centering Washer (#58). In practice, it tends to generate less drag force as such a large surface area can aquaplane and lose friction. By utilising the outer edge of the Main Drive (#61), Daiwa had managed to generate heavy drag pressure consistently.

Lightly grease Main Drive (#61) with Cal’s Grease, taking care to grease the inner ratchet and insert Carbon Fibre Pad (#62). Seat well to the bottom of the drive shaft.

Caution Fiddly Operation

Drag Pressure Plate (#63) is home to the tiny Line-Out Clicker (#66) and Spring (#65). Grease the orifice lightly and install.

Thinly grease Rubber O Ring (#64) with Cal’s Grease and install Drag Pressure Plate (#63) assembly into Main Drive (#61).

Pinion Assembly

Grease the teeth of Main Drive (#61) and Pinion (#54) with a light grease. Hang Pinion (#54) by Yoke (#52) and install to Yoke Guide (#20). Place a Yoke Spring (#53) over each post.

Underside of Thumb Rest (#11) is plastic and need not be greased. Attach to Frame (#13) and secure with two Posidrive Screws (#12)

Regreasing the Smaller Pinion Support Bearing

Remove the retaining clips and shields of smaller Pinion Support Bearing (#4) using a sharp hook. This is the only bearing with replaceable shields. Degrease the old grease and clean till you can hear the balls rattling loosely in their races.

Repack with a light grease and refit shields and clips. If you like a light cranking feel, only use CorrosionX to lubricate the balls. I feel grease provide more protection.

Preparing the Drive Sideplate

Coat the inside of Drive Sideplate (#1) with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease. Take care to avoid getting grease into the Roller Bearings (#2) or Instant Anti-Reverse will slip. Use CorrosionX sparingly instead.

Insert plastic oval Bung (#117) into its housing

Insert Anti-reverse Clutch Tube (#67) into Roller Bearing (#2) and smaller Pinion Support Bearing (#4) into Drive Sideplate (#1).

Install black plastic Sleeve (#3) into smaller Pinion Support Bearing (#4).

Secure with Spring Clip (#5)

Lightly grease Cast Control Cap mount. Note that the keyed side of Anti-reverse Clutch Tube (#67) face outwards

Attach Clicker Spring (#6)

Seat Drive Sideplate assembly (#1) into Frame (#13)

Insert Black plastic Pinion Centering Pin (#7), grease threads and ratchet of Cast Control Cap (#10)

Protect insides of Lower Lip (#83) with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease. Attach to Frame. Secure with Levelwind Guide Rail (#50).

As the Spool spins in close tolerance to the frame, clean off excess grease from screw holes as it can adversely affect your ability to cast light lures. To protect this part of the frame, you can paint a thin coat of CorrosionX, rinse and reapply after each use at saltwater.

Secure Drive Sideplate (#1) with two Slot Screws (#80 & #81) at the top front and back and a Philips Head Screw (#82) beneath the reel foot.

Don’t know what it’s for

Secure Thumb Rest (#11) with Posidrive screws (#12). There’s a thin stamped plate (#121) that fits as shown at the front post. I cannot understand the purpose of this part in the reel.

Secure thin stamped plate (#121) to Thumb Rest (#11) with Posidrive screw (#12)

Handle Assembly

Repack CRBB Drive Shaft Bearing (#68) with light grease and wiggle it down the Drive Shaft (#30). You can also use CorrosionX oil if you want a light cranking feel.

Lightly grease Stainless Steel Washer (#69) and install.

Lightly grease Star Drag Clicker assembly (#70 & #71) and install with spring facing up as shown.

Lightly grease Belleville Springs (#72) and install opposed “()”

Two sides of Thrust Washer

One side of Thrust Washer (#73) is flat and Copper coloured.

The other side of Thrust Washer (#73) is domed and has a dark smooth coating

Install Thrust Washer (#73) with copper side facing down (Dark domed side facing Star Drag)

Grease inside of Star Drag (#74) with light grease, taking care to also grease the threads and ratchet.

Screw down Star Drag (#74) as far down as you can muster by hand.

Lightly grease Star Drag Cap (#75) and install concave side facing down.

Lightly grease Handle (#76) contact surfaces with Quicksilver 2-4-C grease.

Finishing Up

Protect contact surfaces with a coat of Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine grease and secure with 12mm Bolt (#77). Lock in position with Lock Plate (#78) and slot head Screw (#79). You can back off Star Drag (#74) now.

Servicing Handle Knob Bearings

Handle Knobs are supported by a pair of CRBB bearings. I fashion a End Cap puller by bending an egg clip into an L. Insert into the hole and pull Chromed End Cap out. Beneath, the Handle Knobs are held by a Slot Head Screw

Use Marine Grease to prevent Corrosion

Coat Handle Knob Shafts with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease.

Install Washer.

Re-Lube and Install CRBB Bearing.

Slip on Handle Knob.

Relube and install second CRBB Bearing.

Secure with Slot Head Screw.

Refit Chromed End Cap. Repeat procedure for the other Handle Knob.

Your reel is now serviced! Enjoy.



PS: After servicing, I adjusted the drag to spill line as slowly as possible while hanging by its own weight. The smoother drags will be able to let the reel crawl down smoothly. I was skeptical this reel with its rudimentary one-piece drag plus a line-out clicker can pass this test. But the results blew me away. I was so dumbfolded by the results that I could only speak in whispers. Despite the line-out clicker, the reel crawled down so smoothly that it doesn’t appear to be spilling line. Until I observed how the spool rotated slowly!

Text and Images © Lawrence Lee
All Rights Reserved
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12 responses to “SERVICING – Daiwa Z2020 SH

  1. Hi, great breakdown of how to service this reel! btw you mentioned running the ceramic bearings dry, is that true for boca bearings as well or any ceramic bearings for that matter? and where can i get marine grease locally in singapore?

    Cheers mate!

    • All ceramic bearings perform best when running them dry. You can also use a dry lube or one with very Low viscosity. But if you had decided to use ceramics, then might as well run them dry. If you want to see the difference, mount one on a dowel and spin it when cleaned of all dirt and oils. Then apply a tiny drop of your Favourite oil and try again. Then decide if you need oil or not.

      If you are always pitching very small and light lures, then running dry can’t be beaten. If you are always casting a 20g-30g lure, a bit of oil will not hurt performance and it serve to extend your bearing’s lifespan. And if your ceramic bearing is not for the spool but the other parts such as pinion, a good oiling will be good. So choose your options according to your needs instead of chasing after absolute numbers.

      I buy my Quicksilver 2-4-C grease from the boating shop at Punggol Marina. OMC is the company name.

      Hope that helps.

      • I see, that’s very informative. Thanks for your inputs! I’ll go try flushing my spool bearings and see if it casts better, since i do cast lighter lures. Will check out the shop at punggol marina as well.

        Cheers mate!

      • #114 holds the inductor cup mechanism to the spool. There is no need to remove any part from here as there’s nothing that need servicing.

        If you had accidentally got oil on the inductor or the actuators, you simply wash it off using dishwashing liquid and water or Simple Green.

        If you remove the inductor assembly and accidentally stretch/kink the very sensitive spring, you risk adversely affecting you braking mechanism.

        But if you really want to take it off, buy a good set of jeweller’s screwdrivers. You can use the small slot driver to pry the E-clip off easily. There’s a notch between the E-clip and the shaft. Insert the screwdriver there, twist and pry. The clip will fly off.

        Do note that if you botch up the spring, you need to replace the whole spool as there’s no replacement parts available for these things. Or you gotta learn to cast without any braking.

  2. Pingback: SERVICING – Accurate Boss BX-400NX | Gasping Gurami·

  3. Hi, can you show which tool did you used to remove the screw 81 ? i have trouble removing the screw haha. Thank you very much.

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