SERVICING – Daiwa Zillion 100SH

Daiwa Zillion 100SH Basic Servicing

This was one of the maintenance step by step guides I posted on the old FNR forum. Thankfully, I still had the files when the site went down, so here it is again.

Had a request from a colleague who got this highly desirable reel. He wants to know how to strip and fix it back in order to service it himself with confidence. Brought it to my home, I cracked it open and he started to take pictures while I explained what to do and what not to do. I didn’t go as far as to strip off the clutch mechanism to access the Pinion main bearing and the drive shaft support bearing, but that can be done another day.

Since the pictures are made, I thought I’ll post them here to share with all who are interested to see what is inside this reel, or want to know how it is maintained.

Basic Servicing Parts Stripped

Here are the parts of the reel stripped for simple servicing. As each part is removed, it is laid out from top left to right, in the order that it came out from.

First step is to degrease, especially the spool spindle bearings. Using a solvent like turpentine, Ronsonol Lighter fluid or Simple Green. Carburettor spray cleaner also will work. When the bearing is really clean and dry, free spinning it on a pencil/needlenose forceps produced 12 seconds of spinning time! Pretty good for old stock bearings.

Preparing the right side plate

After cleaning and oiling with a corrosion resistant oil like CorrosionX, drop the small pinion support bearing into its housing. The Antireverse roller bearings must not have grease or heavy oils on it or it will slip. Use CorrosionX to lightly oil it instead.

Preparing the Right Side Plate

Carefully snap in the retaining circlip.

Carefully Does It
Take precaution that if this clip flies off, you can find it within your work area. So it makes sense to install springs and circlips within the confines of a clear plastic bag.

You can choose to drop in the the Black T-shaped spool tension pin now or later, after you had fitted on the right side plate. Do not grease this pin. Use the lightest grade of oil on this to get maximum freespool which affects casting distance.

Lightly smear some grease on the threads of the stub for the cast control knob. Also add a tiny dab of grease on the point of the clicker spring.

Carefully thread in the cast control knob. You can choose to assemble this at a later stage (before you fix the handle) together with the Black T-shaped spool tension pin. Doing it later will make it easier to fix the sideplate to the frame.

Use Drag Grease For Wet Drags

Daiwa Zillion use a multi piece “wet” drag. The term wet drag was coined by Fin Nor reel company many years back when their legendary smooth Big Game cork drags are “wet” with Neat’s Foot oil. Now-a-days wet drag means that the drag pieces are greased with a very light lithium-teflon grease.

If you do not have drag grease, do not try to use your regular reel grease to wet your drags. You will get jerky drags instead of getting them smooth. In that case, it is better to use your drags dry, or go get a proper drag grease. Daiwa, Shimano and Cal’s (maker of smooth drag and carbontex) drag grease are available in our Local Tackle Shops.

This is what Daiwa’s Drag Grease looks like. It is very thin, compared to Cal’s Grease.

Greasing The Drag Washers

Wet your drag washers on both sides. You just need to wet them with the grease which is very thin. You need not butter it thickly with your expensive grease.

Mop up the excess…

For this reel, we didn’t have the time to strip off the Pinion Bearing and the Gear shaft bearing. But do note that they are the prime candidates for corrosion and I’d recommend you grease them well since they are so many more steps of stripping to get to.

If you want to know how to do that, see my posting on SERVICING: Daiwa Alphas R-Edition. The principle is mainly the same.

Drop in the smallest carbon washer and seat it flat against the plastic ratchet of the freespool mechanism.

Installing The Drag Stack

First piece of the drag stack is a stainless steel Eared Washer. Slap on some drag grease after you’ve dropped it in.

Note: Do not grease the underside of this washer or the inside of the Main Drive gear. Doing so may render the eared washer stuck to the Main Drive gear and very difficult to remove without the aid of compressed air.

There are 2 pieces of big Carbon washers. Drop any piece in next.

Slap on some drag grease.

SOME drag grease… NOT butter it thickly like kaya toast (For readers who do not understand Singlish, Kaya is a thick spread made from eggs and sugar. It’s usually spread on toast thickly)

Mop up the excess.

Drop in the stainless steel washer with a square key hole.

Slap on some drag grease

Try to wipe away excess grease and stay tidy

Drop in the 2nd piece of big Carbon washer and slap on some drag grease.

Mop up the excess

Drop in the 2nd piece of Stainless Steel Eared Washer and slap on some grease.

Mop away the excess

Drop in the small Graphite drag washer and slap on some grease.

mop up the excess

Drop in the thickest Stainless Steel key washer.

Clean away excess

Greasing the Drive Train

Use lithium grease and work it into the Main Drive Gear’s teeth.

In this old pic, I used red-colored lithium-soap SureGrease. I now find it insufficient if it gets wet as the water will emulsify the grease. I now prefer to use Cal’s Grease which works both for drag and for the drivetrain.

Clean away any excess from the top and bottom faces of the Main Drive Gear, taking care not to contaminate Drag grease with Lithium grease.

With key washers of the drack stack aligned, drop the Main Drive Gear with Drag stack down the Drive Shaft and mesh with Pinion Gear.

There — the main drive is sitting flat on the bottom graphite washer and meshing with the pinion gear

Work the Main Drive Gear a few rounds to squeeze excess grease into the Pinion Gear.

After that, wipe off excess grease.

Installing The Parts Of The Handle System

There are 2 ends to the Roller Bearing Clutch’s inner sleeve. This end should go in first.

This end should be facing the handle.

This is what it looks like installed correctly. You can choose to install this now, or after you had fitted in the right side cover. Installing it later makes it easier to fit the right side plate for a beginner.

Tricky balance

If you had installed the parts in the right side plate and the inner sleeve of the Roller Clutch Bearing, you need to align more points – the plastic spool tension pin goes into the hole in the pinion, drive shaft comes out of the hole in the right side plate. At the same time, take care not to dislodge the 2 springs at the pinion yoke.

But if you did not fit the above parts, it is easier to close the right side plate, although you need to remember where those parts you didn’t fix earlier goes to, because you are not refitting in order removed.

The Easier way to fix it

Drop in the right side cover. It will be much easier to install if you had not fitted in the Roller bearing clutch’s inner sleeve, the T shaped black plastic spool tension pin and cast control knob. But then you might forget where all those things belong to if you are a novice at this. That’s why this post is meant to help you remember how to fix it all back.

Hold the sandwich firmly. For corrosion resistance, you should grease the metal frame and sideplates with a marine grease, especially at this spot where the nose piece meets the frame.

Drop in the plastic nose piece.

Thread in the long screw that serves as the levelwind guide rail.

Tighten. The more observant of you might notice that I’m holding onto the screwdriver bits instead of using a proper screwdriver. I choose to do it this way as it has less grip, thus preventing over torque-ing screws.

The right side plate is not fully secured yet, so do not let go of it or the springs inside will push it apart.

Dab a bit of grease on the screws and work it into the threads.

Remove all excess grease and carefully thread them into the corresponding holes, taking note that there are 2 short and 1 long screws. The long one fits into the bottom hole. Do not tighten completely till you have completed alignment.

Drop in the Roller Clutch bearing’s inner sleeve, the T shaped black plastic spool tension pin and cast control knob, if you had not yet installed them.

The big Drive shaft bearing should have its seal removed and be greased for maximum protection. But if you like a light feel on the crank, oil this bearing with CorrosionX and always rinse and re-oil after use in the salt for longevity.

UPDATE 2012: There are now full ceramic bearings available in the market. These are corrosion proof and are ideal bearings for this purpose. You only need the cheaper Zirconium (White) bearings for this placement.

Drop in the big drive shaft bearing and work it into its housing by pressing while rotating the drive shaft.

Aligning The Right Side Plate Before Tightening The Screws
When everything is seated squarely, tighten the 3 screws, taking care not to over torque.

Finishing Off

The bearing thrust washer is a very small and thin washer. Install with the flat side facing downwards.

Wiggle the Thrust washer till it seats flat against the big drive shaft bearing.

Lightly grease the clicker cap and slide the flat side down first.

When correctly mounted, you should see the clicker as shown. Fitting it upside down may damage the clicker.

Springs — Making Your Drag Powerful Or Progressive

The reel is installed with Belleville spring washers spooned together like this: (( It makes a very powerful drag.

But since this reel is fishing with light poundage lines, I turned the belvielle spring washers to face each other like this: ( )

This gives the reel a more progressive drag range and also improvement on the startup inertia (breakaway force is almost non existant) such that the reel can crawl down on its own weight when hung by its line, in a very smooth and slow speed. The tradeoff is losing high drag numbers, but that is not needed for this reel anyway.

In short, for powerful drag, face the washers: ((
For smooth progressive tension, face the washers ( )

The drag star washer has a rounded side and a flat side.

This flat side should face downwards, touching the Belleville spring washers.

Dab a bit of grease on the point of the clicker. Resist the urge to fill the ratchet in the drag star with grease.

Carefully thread in the drag star.

Then drop in the the black coloured star drag cap.

Place in the handle.

Thread in the handle nut carefully.

Synch down the star drag tight before tightening the handle nut.
Tighten the handle nut, taking care not to over torque and taking note of the nut’s position in order to fix in the locking tab.

Drop in the locking tab with its curved side facing down.

Then lock that locking tab in place with the locking screw.

Fixing in the Left Side Plate

Clean the Ball bearing housing on the left side plate of oil and debris. There is a felt washer at the bottom that tend to soak up water. Clean that up thoroughly.

There is no need to remove the magnets as it does not corrode. However, my 14-year old TDX103-HVA had its inner magnet ring come off from the plastic housing. When that happens, you find that the braking is either full on or full off. (It was full on for me).

To fix this, I turned the braking knob to max, aligned the line marking on the plastic bearing housing, the inner magnet with the outer magnet and glued the inner magnet back with some contact adhesive.

Oil the small spool spindle bearing with a low viscosity oil and fit within its housing in the centre of the magnets of the left side plate.

Do not over oil spool bearings as it will affect casting of small lures. If you had dropped more than 1 drop of oil, try to dab away excess with a tissue paper. If you have a can of compressed air, giving the bearing a blast will blow off excess oils and cause it to spin at high RPM. But do not spin dry bearings this way as it will cause premature wear.

I personally prefer to remove the bearing shields and run them open. I can clean the bearings more effectively this way, and also it seem to give me better spin times. My ABEC7 bearing for the left sideplate can free spin 45 seconds when effectively degreased.

Carefully slide in the retaining circlip.

Next, lightly dot each end of the spool spindle with low viscosity oil and reassemble. Sorry, wrong picture! but you know where is the spool spindle right?

That’s all for now. I’ve not touched on servicing the spindle and handle bearings. If there’s a need to, let me know and I’ll make another post for that.



Text and Images © Lawrence Lee
All Rights Reserved
If you want to use any content for your own publication, please write me @


8 responses to “SERVICING – Daiwa Zillion 100SH

  1. Hello from France,
    Very useful to read, but I wish photographs would still be available to better understand some steps of the process. Would it be possible to have these photos?
    Thank you anayway for this very good tutorial!

    Best regards


    • Thanks for letting me know that the photos on this servicing guide are missing.

      I have checked and many more photos from other pages in my blog are also missing.

      Then I realise that the pictures that are missing are all hosted on Imageshack, and they have shut off the photos as they are now not a free image hosting website.

      Please give me some time to upload my photos to another image hosting site and update the photo links.

      I sincerely apologise for the interruption.

  2. Great job and just cleaned and greased. I’ve done this a few times prior and best job I’ve seen on putting it back together. Question, This reel has had a history of drag working spot on but then all of a sudden I have no drag at all. I think I had all the pieces in correctly. I’ll give it a whirl after putting her all back using your pics and see if it’s working proper. Again Thanks

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