SERVICING – Daiwa Alphas R-Edition

SERVICING – Daiwa Alphas R-Edition

This reel servicing step by step guide is long overdue. I had posted several at the FNR website, but it went down and along with it, my work is lost.

Fortunately, I had posted 2 step by step guides at my Multiply site. But alas, not for long, as I’m notified that the photo hosting segment of Multiply will be discontinued.

So here’s my latest step by step guide for simple lubrication and reassembly of Daiwa’s Alphas R-Edition. In it, you will find that I prefer to use grease to protect my reels from corrosion. In fact, it is now my habit to strip and grease up a brand new reel even before it has a chance to go fishing. And with careful cleaning after every use, the reel retains its original finish without a spot of corrosion after almost 4 years’ use exclusively on salt water.

Let’s begin by seeing what is happening to a reel after you had used it and rinsed off with fresh water… water ingress had emulsified the non-marine (red colour) grease. Marine Grease (brown) protective coating still retains its colour. If you continue to use the reel with its grease emulsified this way, the grease will not give its full protection and premature wear will result.


Observe that water got in at the pinion and at the freespool thumb bar. Together with the joints at the level wind in front, these are the first places on the reel that corrosion show up first.


Having washed off the grease, this 2008 Daiwa Alphas R-Edition’s internals are still free from corrosion.


After washing away the protective layer of Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease, the interior is free of corrosion despite it having seen 4 years of saltwater fishing.


Parts stripped and degreased are grouped in their assembly order


Note that the screw at Clutch Cam PLT (6G357301) is at the wrong place. It should be swapped with the slotted screw at the Retainer (6G357701)


Here, you’ll notice an extra Belvielle Washer in Black beside the Star Drag. I took it from a Calcutta 100 to fill up the slack space when the star is turned totally off. This way, there is always a slight pressure to hold the spool even when the drag is backed off completely.


Closeup of the extra Belleville Washer.

Notice that I had removed all the shields from the bearings. I prefer to run ball bearings open as it makes cleaning more effective than having the false security of having shielded bearings, unless one is willing to repack the shielded bearings with grease regularly.


To remove the Roller Clutch bearing (6F999803), I used a 7mm box wrench to press it out.


Start by Greasing up the internal frames with a marine grease. I use Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease with Teflon, just because I have it lying around the house. You can use any marine grease of your choice.

Marine grease does not turn white when exposed to water. But if you can’t get marine grease, use any grease you can lay your hands on because using some form of grease to protect against corrosion is way better than not having any grease.

I usually grease any new reel this way, even before it gets to go fishing with me.


Grease up the Right Side Plate (6G565904) and remember to put a bit of grease into the slotted holes where the white Teflon Plate (6G262301) sits. The grease also helps hold it in place as you work.


The frame beneath these 2 Clutch Lever plates (6G357001 and 6G356901) tend to get wet with salt water and are one of the first places to start corroding. Apply a thick layer of marine grease to prevent that from happening too quickly.


Slip in the Clutch Lever (6G357201). No need for grease here as it is made of plastic.


The Pinion Bearing (6G431002) is a black Anti Rust treated bearing. Nevertheless, it is most prone to corrosion as water comes in through the pinion. My preference is to grease this bearing, which was what I had been doing all along.

Do note that greasing this bearing will introduce some resistance to your cranking. It does not feel rough, but rather, it feels like cranking a high ratio spinning reel if you know what I mean.

If you prefer a light feel crank, then oil it with a thick anti corrosion oil like CorrosionX.

The dimensions for this ball bearing are: 12 x 8 x 3.5mm (OD x ID x width)

A point to remember well when mixing different lubricants and grease is that some may react against each other and lose its protection or lubrication. So far, I’ve found that CorrosionX will not react with Cal’s Grease, Quicksilver 2-4-C Grease, and TSI-301 lubricant for the spool bearings.


Cover Pinion bearing with White Plastic Clutch Cam (6G357101)


Insert Clutch Cam PLT (6G357301) into a slot in the clutch lever (6G357201) and rotate the clutch cam in its groove so that the cams match the keys cut in the Clutch Cam PLT.

16
Apply Cal’s grease to the Clutch Cam PLT (6G357301). Secure with a slotted screw (6G009701) which has a step before the threads.


Attach spring (6G357801)


When attaching springs and clips, it is safer to do it in a plastic bag as these tiny things have a perverted wish to go flying off and become hopelessly lost, thereby spoiling your evening.


Place Activating Plate (6G357401) over Clutch Cam PLT (6G357301), Insert washer (6F774603) and secure with E-Clip Retainer (63205901)


Gear Shaft Bearing (6F055601) is another ball bearing highly vulnerable to corrosion. So Daiwa engineers also treated it with a black Anti Rust coating.

This is another bearing that I’d like to use grease, just for the same reason I recommend grease for the Pinion Bearing.

The dimensions for this ball bearing are: 8 x 5 x 2.5mm (OD x ID x width)


Drop some CorrosionX oil into the felt Washer (6F647201) at the tip of the Gear Shaft (6H129301)


Slip Gear Shaft (6H129301) into the yoke of Retainer (6H129301) and grease up with a dab of Cal’s Grease.


The raised hole fits Slotted Screw (6G021201)


And the chamfered hole fits Philips Head Screw (6E134503). This is also the only place in this reel that you need to use a Philips Head Screwdriver.

Attach Antireverse spring (6G010201)


Grease the base of Gear Shaft (6H129301) and drop in A/R Ratchet (6F761701) taking care the teeth point in a clockwise direction.

In the following pictures, you’ll notice it was incorrectly placed.


Phenolic Washer (6E489502) goes in next.

Note A/R Ratchet (6F761701) is incorrectly faced. The “Teeth” should be in a clockwise direction


Insert Worm Shield (6F836502) into the Levelwind Line Guide (6G564901).

Observe where I’ve greased thickly, these are the problem spots where corrosion tends to show her ugly head.


Worm Shield (6F836502) is held in place by interlocking with Collar (6B715601)


Thread Worm Shaft (6G418001) through after oiling it with some CorrosionX.


Insert Washer (6F655501). Grease and secure with E-Clip Retainer (63205901). To keep from losing your E-Clip Retainers, do the assembly in a clear plastic bag.


Temporarily insert Stabiliser Bar (6G358701) to aid in aligning the Levelwind Line Guide (6G564901).


Oil Pawl (61214212) with CorrosionX and introduce into Levelwind Line Guide (6G564901). Place Brass washer (63731303) over the Pawl (61214212).


Secure with plastic Pawl Cap (6F402801). Do not over tighten!


Remove Stabiliser Bar (6G358701), grease this problem spot liberally and drop in Front Cover (6G565507)


Reattach Stabiliser Bar (6G358701) and tighten.


Lightly grease the threads of Pinion Gear (6G593101) hang it onto white plastic Yoke (6G357901), insert into Pinion Bearing (6G431002) and put Yoke Springs (6G358001) over the 2 yoke alignment posts.


Thread Gear Shaft (6H129301) through Plastic Worm Shaft Gear (6G011201) with its studded side facing up


Alternate the Fibre drag washers with the Stainless Steel Washers in the order as shown.

Note that I’ve replaced Daiwa’s drag washers with Carbontex and I’ve lightly greased the two sides of the carbon washers with Cal’s Grease. You can also use the Carbontex dry if you want more friction. I chose to replace the original Daiwa drag washers with Carbontex as Daiwa’s rubberised washers judder when fouled with oil or water.


Grease Drive Gear (6G358303) with Cal’s Grease and mate it with the studs of Worm Shaft Gear (6G011201).

Drop the washers into Drive Gear (6G358303) in the order shown in previous picture, starting from the left to right.


Oil or grease Pinion shaft support bearing (6G466201). As this one has less likelihood of water contamination, it is not Anti rust treated.

The dimensions for this ball bearing are: 8 x 5 x 2.5mm (OD x ID x width)

Secure with C-Clip Retainer (6E219701)


Apply a thin coat of grease to the steel cage on the OUTSIDE of the Roller Clutch Bearing (6F999803).

Press it into its housing with the plastic end facing up. DO NOT Grease the rollers. Too viscous a lube on the rollers will cause the antireverse to slip. I use CorrosionX to lightly oil the roller bearings.


Lightly grease the threads of the Retaining Screws (6G040805 and 6G040806) and secure the Right Side Plate (6G565904), taking careful note the correct positions of the 2 long and 1 short retaining screws


The short retaining Screw is for the hole beside the Daiwa 103 name. Do not over tighten.


Slide Antireverse Collar (6G011401) down Gear Shaft (6H129301) with its keyed end facing up.


Oil or Grease the non Anti Rust treated Gear Shaft Ball Bearing (6B861702) and slide down Gear Shaft (6H129301).

The dimensions of this ball bearing are: 12 x 8 x 3.5mm (OD x ID x Width)


Cover Gear Shaft Ball Bearing (6B861702) with the thin Washer (6B553801).


Use a very light oil on Pinion Shaft (6G015501)


Screw on Cast Control Cap (6F574401).

Oppose the Belvielle Washers (61508901) either () . In my case I have an additional washer from a Calcutta so I position mine (()


Grease threads and attach Star Drag (6H129401) and Handle Collar (6F850402)


Tighten Star Drag (6H129401) fully before you attach the handle. This ensures that your handle is sitting flat down the keyway of the Gear Shaft (6H129301) before you tighten the Handle Nut (6G793303).


There are only two ball bearings for the handle knobs — one for each knob at the top. The ends nearest the handle (which tends to get corroded from water ingress) are simply supported by a white teflon bush. Come to think of it, this is smart thinking. The teflon bush will never corrode, and not having a ball bearing here, didn’t make much difference to smoothness and sensitivity at all.

But in case you want to have your bush replaced with ball bearings, the dimensions for these are: 7 x 4 x 2.5mm (OD x ID x Width)

I did not get pictures of the spool and handle bearings being serviced. I’ll probably add this part in at a later date if there is any demand for a step by step. I grease the handle bearings but for the ceramic spool bearings, I run them dry.

The dimensions for spool ball bearings are as follows: 8 x 3 x 4mm and 11 x 5 x 4mm (OD x ID x Width)

That’s all to it! Hope you found this useful in taking care of your reel.

LL

Text and Images © Lawrence Lee
All Rights Reserved
If you want to use any content for your own publication, please write me @ Lee.TC.Lawrence@gmail.com

One response to “SERVICING – Daiwa Alphas R-Edition

  1. Pingback: SERVICING — Daiwa Certate Hyper Custom | Gasping Gurami·

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